SB 93 




KALENDAR, 



FOR THE 



MIDDLE STATES OF NORTH AMERICA. 



GR^JVT THORBURJV, 



SEEDSMAIS^ AND FLORIST. 



SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND IMPROVED. 

m . - 

#^ 

S^S NEW- YORK : 

M ■ W 

5 PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY THE AUTHOR, 2 l NASSAU ST.«\ J 

w «/i 





GENTLEMAN Sf GARDENEIVS 



KALENDAR, 

FOR THE 

MIDDLE STATES OF NORTH AMERICA. 



BY GRAJVT THORBURJSf, 

SEEDSMAN AND. FLOREST. 



SECOXD EDITION, CORRECTED AXD IMPROVE!?. 



KEW-YORK: 

PRIKTED BY E. B. GOULD, NO. 13 DE7-STREET. 

1817. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Daily inquiries for such a work as flie 
Jolloiving, mduced the Editor to imder 
take ilie CGmpiIatio7i. It is^ no douht^ 
presented to the public under many dis- 
advantages^' hut^ as experienced Gard- 
eners have assisted in the design^ and ap- 
proved of the practical instructions^ there 
is no presumption in hoping that the work 
may prove a valuable remembrancer to 
the horticultural Gentlemen and opera- 

tive Gardeners of the Middle States. The 
*/ 

rapid sale of the firsts has induced the 
Editor to issue a second Edition^ wluck 
is now offered to the Public with several 
additions and many improvements^ which 
iime and experience has pointed out. 
New-York, Jan, 20, 1817. 



r 



Disinct of New -York ^ ss, 

Be it Remembered, that on the elev^enth 
L. s. day of April in the thirty sixth year of the 
Independence of the United States of Ameri- 
^.a, GRANT THORBURN, of the said District, hath 
deposited in this office, the title of a Book, the right 
whereof he claims as Author, in the words following, 
to wit: " The Gentleman and Gardener's Kalendar, for 
?he Middle States of North America, by Grant Thor- 
burn, Seedsman and Florest." 

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the Uni- 
ted States, entitled " An Act for the Encouragement 
of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, 
and Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies 
during the time therein mentioned." And also to an Act 
entitled An Act, supplementary to an Act, entitled an 
Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing 
^he copies of Maps, Charts, and Books to the Authors 
and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein 
mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the 
arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and 
other prints." 

CHARLES CLINTON, 
Clerk of the District of New-York. 



THE 

GENTLEMAN & GARDENER s 

KALEJS'DAR. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 

If part of your garden is new ground, or has not 
been lately cultivated, it is necessary early this month, 
(the weather being moist) to plough or dig the ground, 
being careful to bury the sod, that the grass may rot, 
and the roots perish by ensuing frosts. This ground 
will answer in the course of the year to receive the 
generality of vegetables. 

It would be better had it been ploughed or dug 
deep last fall. 

Clayey ground may be improved with coal ashes, 
ar rubbish of lime and bricks, riddled free from 
lumps ; or even sand will loosen and improve such 
ground. Sandy soils may be imr)roved with the slime, 
and mud of swamps and creeks, and both kinds of 
ground enriched with dung. To produce early crops 
of vegetables it is necessary to provide dung for the 
formation of hot-beds, to raise such tender pl^.nts as 
cannot be raised in open ground early in the year. 

FORMATION OF HOT-BEDS. 

Take fresh horse-dung with plenty of long litter in 
it ; shake the dung well and place it on a piece of ground 
A 2 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



the size of the bed you want to make ; the first lay- 
er or two should have more litter than the others ; — 
beat the dung well down with your fork as you proceed 
with the layers, till your bed is the height you want it. 
Different vegetables require beds of different heights — 
but the mode of making them is the same. The bed be- 
mg thus made, place a frame light over it' and in six 
or ^ight days the bed will be in a strong fermentation. 

TO TEMPER A HOT-BED. 

When the frame has been on six or eight days,, 
take it off; if the bed has settled unequally, make 
the surface level by laying on a little old dung I — Run 
a stick, or fork handle into the bed, let the stick stay 
there five minutes ; on pulling it out^ if it is more than 
a temperate heat, lay on the frame, tilt up the back 
lights that the steam may escape", and close the holes 
you bored in the dung. When the bed comes to a 
temperate heat, it is ready for use. 

FORCLYG ASPARAGUS. 

The best roots for this purpose are those which are 
four years old, and have never been cut for use; they 
will produce the largest and best buds. Some people 
plant olvf roots that have been frequently cut for use, 
and are of no further valu^ for that purpose, but the 
first kind are infinitely preferable. Early this month 
dig a trench 18 inches deep, the size of the hot-bed 
you mean to make ; make the hot-bed three and a half 
feet high, and two or three inches wider and longer 
than the frame that is to cover it. (See formation of 
hot-beds this month.) Two hundred roots are neces- 
sary for a one-light frame, i. e \\ feet by 2| feet. — 
When your bed is made, and in proper temper, (see 
tempering of hot-beds in January) cover it six inches 
deep with earth that was thrown out of the trench. 

Proceed to plant thus : — Mark on the surface the 
aize of your frame j within that mark raise a ridge of 



JA^rUARY. 



earth the length of your frame : place the plants 
against this ridge, close to each other, their tops up- 
right, and draw a httle earth to the bottom of the 
plants to keep them in their places ; then raise an- 
other ridge and place other plants against it in like 
manner, till your bed is covered with plants ; their 
tops must be level with each other: then bank up 
the outside plants all around with moist earth or clay 
as high or two inches higher thaii tiie tops of the 
plants, and cover the tops with rich light earth two 
inches deep. Asparagus beds made thus, should be 
on a dry situation, where the earth is rich and light* 
If you have not such a situation, the trench must 
not be more than six iuches deep, and rich light earth 
mast be brought from another place for covering 
the plants. In about two weeks, the plants will be- 
gin to appear through the earth : w^hen that is the 
case, wind a thick straw rope round the bed, so as 
to rest upon the clay which banks up the outmost 
plants. Thrust w^ooden pegs through the rope and into 
the bed, so as to prevent the rope or band being press- 
ed out when the frame is placed on it : the straw ban- 
dage must be three or four inches thick ; and being thus 
secured, proceed to lay four inches more mould over 
the plants. If the bed is not more than a temperate 
heat, put on your frame : to ascertain the heat, run a 
stick down into the bed and feel the stick in five or ten 
minutes, stopping the hole afterwards. If the bed is 

too hot, keep off the frame till the heat subsides 

From the time of planting, till you put on the frame, 
defend the beds from any heavy rains and snows that 
fall, with straw or litter. After the frame is put on, 
raise the lights when there is a great steam under 
them, and admit air daily. The first fourteen days af- 
ter planting, try the heat once or twice a day, by 
means of a stick ; and if there be aery danger that the 
"oots burn, bore holes on each side of the bed, both 
the dung and in the earth under the roots, to let out 



8 ^ KITCHEN GARDEN, 



the extra heat, being careful to stop the holes when 
the heat subsides. When the heat is moderate, lay 
litter round the bed to preserve the heat,, and parti- 
cularly if sharp winds, cold rains, or snows pre vaiL — 
Should the heat decline too much at any time after the 
frame is put on, place a lining of hot dung round the 
bed, to reviye the heat ; first removing the litter if 
there be any round the bed. Fresh air must be given 
daily, and the glasses covered every night with mats 
or straw. 

Asparagus thus managed, will begin to produce in 
foTir or five weeks after planting, and continue to pro- 
duce three or four weeks if the heat be kept up. A 
bed fo;r a one-light frame will produce two hundred 
buds per week. Dont cut asparagus thus raised, but 
thrust your finger into the earth, and break the buds 
by the roots. 

LETTUCES, 

You may now make a hot-bed for early cut sallad. — 
The best sort to sow for this purpose, is the Silesia. 
If your ground is dry, dig a pit about eighteen inches 
deep ; fill it with fresh hot dung ; place on your frame ; 
tilt the lights to let the steam pass oif for a few days ; 
then earth it about six inches deep ; sow the seed very 
thick, and sift just as much earth over as will cover it 
all regularly. Keep the lights close shut until the 
plants come up, unless much steam or heat arise, in 
which case you must tilt some of them, being careful 
in severe weather to prevent the immediate access of 
external air into the bed, by nailing a mat over the 
aperture between the frame and sash. As the plants 
progress, refresh them once or twice a week with 
a light watering ; admit no more air than just to pre- 
vent the plant from flagging, and in about four weeks 
you may begin to cut. 

In order to obtain early head sallad, you may sow in 
a one-light frame some of the heads of green cabbage 



JANUARY. 9 

fettuce, to be transplanted in other beds to be made 
for it next month. Never neglect to have your beds 
well covered every night, and severe weather with 
mats, straw, or litter, ff you have any plants of last 
fairs raising in frames, admit the air freely every mild 
day. If you had good plants planted in frames last 
October, many of them will nov/ be lit to cut, and 
may continue good till April or May. 

KIDISHES, CARROTS, AND SPLYACII. 
Sow short-topped radish-seed mixed with carrot- 
seed on a hot bed eighteen inches high, (see hot bed 
this month) covered with rich earth seven inches deep ; 
or spinach-seed may be mixed v, ith the radish-seed ; 
the carrots or spinach will be tit for use some time af- 
ter the radishes are drawn out. Sow these seeds 
pretty thick, and rake them about half an inch deep 
in the earth. Give air daily ; water two or three 
times a week, and cover the glasses every night with 
mats, straw, or litter. 

MINT. 

Make a hot-bed two feet high ; (see formadon of 
hot beds this month) lay five inches of rich earth upon 
the bed ; lay roots of mint on the earth, and covei? 
the roots an inch and half deep with more earth ; give 
them air daih^ ; water two or three times a vveek, and 
cover them with mats or straw every rdght. The mint 
will be in order for sauces and salads in a fortnight. 

MUSHROOMS. 
Keep 3^our Mushroom bedc^ covered with * traw 
twelve inches deep at least, to exclude eflectually 
snow, rain, and cold, else the spawn will perish. — 
Should any of your covering decay, or get wet thro', 
replace such with iresh siraiv. New beds may now 
be made, but the fill is a better time.-:- (See Septera- 



( f 

FRUITS, flowers; & SFIRUBS. 

APPLES AA'D PEARS. 

This month prune espalier trees ; cut out superflu- 
ous and irregular shoot^, and decaj-ed branches: but 
if the weather be cold you had better defer it till next 
month or March ; the latter close to the place from 
whence they spring. Train the young regular shoots 
about the distance of six inches from each other : dont 
shorten any of them till they are the length of your 
espaliers, because the shoots bear most fruit towards 
their extremities. If, however, there are vacancies 
which want to be filled up, you must shorten such 
joung shoots as are strong and adjacent to the vacan- 
cies, for the purpose of naaking the shoots throw out 
lateral shoots to fill the vacancies : in shortening the 
shoots for this purpose, prune them about an inch 
from a long flat eye, because those eyes produce 
shoots ; whereas the round swelling eyes produce onl^ 
fruit buds. 

PLUMBS AND CHERJRIES. 

Prune espalier trees when the weather is mild, i^ 
^he manner directed above for apples and pears. 

PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS. 

Prune espalier trees this month when the weather is 
mild. The fruit will be most plentiful on shoots of last 
summer's growth ; they must therefore be preserved 
and trained horizontally about five inches apart. — 
Prune oflf all the shoots of two, or more years growth, 
where the room they occupy can be supplied with 
young shoots : cut the old shoots close to the place 
whence they grow, unless fruit bearing spurs have 
sprung from them. Also prune some of the young 
shoots the, length of six or eight inches, to produce 
shoots for next year; observe in shortening those, t® 
O-ut them an inch from a long fiut eye : those eyes prw- 



JANUARY. 



duce shoots, whereas the round swelling eyes produce 
©nly fruit huds. 

VINES, 

Prune vines this month in mild weather, if not done 
in the fall. Last summer's shoots must be shortened 
to three eyes ; from those eyes w^ll spring the shoots 
that will bear fruit next summer. Cut off all dead and 
ftuperduous wood, because only the shoots above men- 
tioned will bear fruit. 

GOOSEBERRIES AND CURP^WTS. 
Cut out irregular branches, and those that are old 
and worn out. Those trees bear fruit upon branches 
and shoots of one, two, and three years old; thin the 
trees so that they can have the benefit of sun aud 
air among the branches. 

RASPBERRIES. 
Prune raspberry plantations ; cut away close to the 
ground all the wood that bore fruit last year. Last 
year's shoots only will bear next summer ; leave four 
or five of the best of those standing upon each root; 
the remainder cut off close to the ground. Those 
you leave standing, must have about one-third of their 
length cut off, and be supported with stakes. Dig 
the ground betvveen the roots : take awa^^ straggling 
rooU • ' any shoots that have sprung up between the 
main roots. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Make a hot bed two feet high ; (See kitchen gar- 
den in January for making hot beds) cover it a r^out 
ten inches deep with rich earth ; take plants out of 
natural beds, with a ball of earth round them; place 
them in the earth that covers the hot bed ; put on the 
glasses till the steam rises ; then raise them behind to 
let it out and admit air; cover the glasses with straw 
or mats every light; admit air daily, and w^ater the 
bed twice a week. 



n FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



STANDARD FRUIT TREES. 

Cut away branches that are dead, irregular, or su- 
perfluous ; clear the trees of moss. 

This is a good time for pruning apple, pear, plumb, 
and cherry trees. Most of the apple-trees in many 
orchards are crowded mth branches, which, were 
they thinned to fine, open regular heads, would pro- 
duce much larger fruit and bear more regularly eve- 
ry 3' ear. All branches that grow too close to each 
other, should be thinned out entirely. It is scarcely 
ever necessary to shorten an}'' branches of the above 
kind of standard trees after their heads are formed^, 
which should be particularly attended to when,. the 
trees are young. Three or four branches should be 
allowed to be produced from the main stem, at the 
height of five or six feet from the ground; and as 
these advance, others should be allowed to proceed 
from them at regular distances. Should the main 
shoot of any of these branches, or the main stern it- 
self not produce side shoots at the places wanted, they 
may be cut at such places only* Whenever any of 
the m^in branches of old trees begin to decay, they 
should be cut off near to where the head of the tree 
is formed. Should she whole head fail, 1 would ad- 
vise to cut one or two main branches only in one year. 
TREES LATELY PLANTED. 

Trees lately planted must be supported with stakes, 
to which tie the trees with ropes of hay or straw, wrap- 
ping some hay round the trees, that the bark may not 
be injured by the friction of the ropes ; lay Uttle 
round the stems of the trees as far or farther than the 
roots extend, to protect them from frost. 

PROPAGATION BY SUCKERS. 

Take suckers with roots to them, from roses, lilacs, 
^nd other hardy shrubs, plant them in rows eighteen 
or twenty inches apart, if the weather should prove 
Biild, otherwise it will be better to defer till March. 



JANUARY. 



13 



AURICULAS, CARjYATIOJVS, HYACLYTHS, AND 
TULIPS. 

The beds in which pots containing these flowers are 
plunged, should be dry, and in a warm situation, having 
a shelter of hoops and mats over them; the mats may 
be taken off in mild weather when the sun shines. 

CROCUSES, RANUNCULUSES, ANEMONES, AND 
OTHER BULBS, 

These flowers may be planted this month (if the 
weather is mild) in beds and borders of dry light 
earth, well dug and broke. Plant them from six to 
twelve inches asunder, according to the size of the 
root, and about five inches deep. 

They may also be planted in pots of light sandy 
earth, to blow in the house ; the roots in pots must be 
covered with earth, and no more ; place the pots in a 
sunny window ; when the roots begin to shoot, water 
them lightly occasionally, and they will flower early. 

Note. — Those in the open air must be well coverec} 
with htter to protect them from frost. 

WALL-FLOWERS, SWEET-WILLIAMS, ROSE- 
CAMPIONS, ^c. 

Pots having roots of these flowers in them, must 
have the same care and attention as auriculas, carna- 
tions, ^c. 

FLOWERING SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 

Cover the earth round their stems, as far as the 
roots extend, with litter to protect them from frost ; 
support with stakes those that require support, tying 
the shrubs to the stakes with hay bands or strips of 
woollen rags. Prune off* dead branches, superfluous 
shoots and suckers. 

GREEN-HOUSE. 
Admit air every mild day into the green-house.— 
Slight waterings once or twice a week will be suflScient 



14 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



at this season. Never suffer decayed leaves to re- 
main a day among your plants. If your house has 
shutters, shut it up by sun down, or rather before, 
and open a^ soon as the sun can reach the windows. — 
If it*lias a flue and no shutters, you will frequently 
have to make fire at nights, which should be before 
the air g^ts cool. All green houses ought to have a 
flue, as it often happens that shutters are insufficient 
to exclude the frost. 



FEBRUARY. 

horse-radish. 

About the end of this month plant in rows eighteeo 
inches apart : take cuttings an inch or two long, either 
o£ offsets, or tops of main roots ; or knotty roots cut 
.so as to have two or three eyes on each cut : the last 
are worst. Plant in a light deep soil (dug at least a 
spade deep) either with a dibble, or by trenching. 
The plants must be six inches asunder and fifteen inches 
deep, the crown or top bud uppermost, and the holes 
must be filled up with earth. You may sow over the 
horse radish a crop of spinach, which will be fit for use 
next may, if kept clear of weeds. Next fall the radish 
may be used, but will be better for another year's 
growth. It must be trenched oat row after row; cut 
the trenches about thirteen inches deep, so as not to 
loosen the stool or root, and cut the radish with a knife 
close to the stool ; those stools will continue to produce 
good crops several years if you clear the stools of 
straggling fibres, and draw up all plants that rise be- 
tween the rows. This month, horse radish should be 
planted in moist ground : in the fall it should be planted 
in dry ground. 

MUSHROOMS. 
Attend mushrot>m beds as directed last month. 



FEBRUARY. 



BUSH BEAKS. 

Sow bush beans an inch deep in drills, on earth seven 
inches deep, laid on a hot bed tvvo feet high (se-^ for- 
mation of hot beds ill January) dwarf beans, viz. white 
and liver coloured, black and speckled, are the l)est 
for this uionth. Raise the lights daily to admit air after 
the plants appear, unless the vveather is serere ; water 
them moderately two or three times a week ; in cold 
weather cover the frani^s at night with straw, litter or 
mats. 

CABBAGES AND aWLIFLOWERS. 

Those sown last fall under frames, must have air 
every fine day; water them twice a week. Seed may 
be sown on a hot bed two feet high, (see formation of 
hot beds in January) lay on the bed fife inches deep 
of rich earth, sow the seed and cover it a quarter of an 
inch thick with rich earth — When the plants appear, 
raise the glasses every fine day, and give water twice 
a week ; cover the glasses at night with straw or litter. 

LETTUCE AND SMALL S.^L.WING. 

Make a moderate hot bed on which to sow lettuce, 
mustard, cresses, 4^c. sow the seeds separately in shal- 
low drills, give occasional waterings and admit air mo- 
derately, 

aWBAGES. 

About the twelfth of this month make a hot bed oa 
which to sow about the twentieth, early York, sugar 
loaf, and Early Battersca seed ; the plants will be in 
fine order for transplanting into the main quarter of the 
garden in April. 

BEA^X 

About the last of this month, if the weather proves 
mild, you may plant some of the long pod and windsor 



16 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



beans ; they succeed best in a strong rich soil, and by 
being early planted ; plant them in rows two feet apart, 
Hve inches asunder in the row, and three inches deep. 

PEAS. 

About the last of this month, you may sow some of 
the early frame pea, on a warm border, or any dry 
sheltered situation, in drills about three feet apart; the 
early Charlton and hotspur Peas will also do well 
lor the first sowings ; they are not so early, but fine 
eating peas and good bearers. 

LETTUCES. 

About the last of this month will be a proper time 
to transplant the lettuce plants sowed last month ; make 
a moderate hot bed, in which to plant them, six inches 
asunder, or you may place a frame on a warm border, 
and fill it with lettuce plants ; cover it w^ll at night and 
in cold weather, taking off the sashes every mild day, 
and water a little in dry weather. 

RADISHES. 

You may make a hot bed any time this month, on 
^vhich to sow radishes ; the early short top is the best 
for this purpose ; about eighteen inches of horse dung 
will be depth enough for the bed. Earth it about seven 
or eight inches, and sow the seed regularly over the 
surface covering about half an inch over with fine earth : 
admit air freely all mild weather; as soon as the plants 
come up water once or twice a week. 

CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

To raise these early a hot bed for one light should 
be made, to be earthed six inches deep ; the seeds should 
be sowed in pots about four inches wide, seven or eight 
tfcceds in a pot, and plunged in the earth up to their 
rims ; should the heat become violent, the pots may be 
raised out of danger of burning: great care is neces- 



FEBRUARY- 



wary, after the plants come up, to admit air every mild 
day to prevent them from drawing, if yon place a bot- 
tle with water, for several hours in the bed, previous 
to watering the plants, it wiWhe of great advantage to 
them ; three or four plants will be enough to leave m 
each pot, the rest you may either plant in other pot::^, 
or if some of them are weak, you have a choice in 
retaining only the stoutest ; they are to remain in ihi^ 
bed till they obtain, two rough leaves, and then to be 
managed as directed next month. 

COMFREY. 

Plant partings of roots, eighteen inches asunder, in 
almost any ground; this plant is useful to heal wo^iad-; 
put the roots barely under the ground. 

PRU.YE FRUIT TREES. 

Prune apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, x^eaches, ap- 
ricots, nectarines, raspberries, 4*c. as directed in Jan- 
uary, if not done in that month. Train the espalier 
trees as directed in January, and fix new^ stakes v. borc 
tbey are vranted. 

VLYES. 

Prune vines as directed in Janiiary, if not don<* 
then — this w^ork should be tinished this month, Uri they 
are apt to bleed when cut in March. 

GOOSEBERRIES AJYQ_ CURRA^TS. . 

This is a good seas or! for pruning goosebenies and 
currants, and a fine time to select cuttings for propaga- 
tion. In preparing of these, particular attcRtion is ne- 
cessary to be paid to the following directions-^of goose- 
berries choose stout shoots of last year's growth : you 
may either slip them off or cut them close in from where 
they were produced ; then cut them in lengths of tea or 
twelve inches. Allow two eyes or buds^ with the thorns 
to remain on the summit of each cutting, diveciing iha 
B 2 



FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 

lower part of every bud and thorn, which is easily per- 
formed, by a sudden jerk downwards with the back of a 
pruning loiife. They are then ready for plantings but 
■^t present should only be laid in the"^ground nearly up 
to their eyes, in any warm border, to remain there till 
next month, for planting. Cuttings of currants are se- 
lected and prepared nearly the same as gooseberries ; 
only they may be a few inches longer, and three buds 
may be left to form the head at once. The gooseberry 
is only allowed to make one shoot the first year ; and 
inany only leave but one bud on each cutting ; but I 
prefer two buds in case of any accident, to which they 
are often liable. As soon as they begin to push, the 
weakest should be pinched off; the other is allowed 
to shoot as much as possible, and next spring cut doivn 
within one foot of the ground, from whence the head 
in fine order, will be produced, and this is done by al- 
lowing only the three uppermost buds to shoot, rub- 
bing off all below. 

PMJVT FRUIT TREES. 

In open weather, plant walnut and chesnut trees 
about thirty-five feet apart — Filberts about eighteen 
feet apart — Mulberries about thirty feet apart-Peaches, 
liectarines and apricots about twenty feet apart, if es- 
paliers—Plumbs and cherries for espaliers, twenty feet 
apart. Standard apples and pears in orchards should be 
thirty or forty feet apart. Standard cherries and plumbs 
about 25 feet apart. Almonds, quinces, and medlars, 
jbout twenty feet apart. Give more, rather than less 
room.. In planting trees, cut off damaged and long strag- 
gling roots. Make the holes a spade or more deep, and 
wide enough to let the roots freely spread ; break the 
earth well, and if poor, mixit with dung or compost — 
throw in a spade full or two before you put in the tree 
and in filling up, shake the tree gently, that the earth 
may close round the small roots ; when filled, tread 
Oown the earth well. Support with stakes such trees 



MARCH. 



19 



a* require support, tying them with a rope of hay or 
straw, and wrapping some round the trees to save the 
bark from the friction of the ropes. 

FLOWERim SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 

Prune and plant those (if not done in January,) see 
directions last month. 

FLOWERS IN POTS. 

Towards the end of this month if the weather is mild 
dress auriculas, carnations, 4"C. that are in pots, (see 
January,) by cleaning away dead leaves, ^c. taking out 
old earth from the top and sides of the pots, and repla* 
( ing it with fresh light compost. 

TULIPS, CROCUSES, RANUNCULUSES, ANE- 
MONES AND OTHER BULBS. 

Those that were planted last fall, and last month in 
beds and borders, must be kept covered in severe 
weather with litter or straw. In mild weather they 
may be exposed to the sun. 

GREEN-HOUSE. 

The same directions as given last month are ne- 
cessary to be attended to in this, as many of the plants, 
will now be making numerous shoots for flowering. It 
will be necessary to admit as much air as can be done 
with safety ; and the waterings ought to be a little in- 
creased. * 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Make new walks where wanted — clean and roll your 
gravel and grass walks — dig ground for the reception 
of plants and seed, next month. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



MARCH. 

PLA^T SMALL ONIOXS. 

Plant small onions in drills an inch deep, and twelve 
inches asunder, the plants three inches apart in the 
drills ; nip the seed bud out when it appears : plant in 
good ground, rather stiff. Those small onions will grow 
to a good size. 

PLANT ONIONS FOR SEED. 

Plant the best and largest onions in drills an inch or 
two deep, twelve inches asunder ; the plants four or five 
inches apart ; when their heads come, support the stalks 
with a stake each, and when the seed is ripe, gather 
and dry it. 

MELONGENA, OR EGG PL^^MT. 

The purple is preferable to the white kind. Sow 
the seed ab\)ut the middle of this month on a hotbed, 
(see formation of hot beds in January,) covered six 
inches deep with earth ; then cover the seed with an 
inch depth of earth, put on a frame, and when the plant* 
appear, v/ater them gently and admit air freely in the 
day When they are as large as cabbage plants, take 
the glass off to make them ready ; plant them in a piece 
of ground well dug, in rows fifteen inches asunder, the 
plants twelve inches apart in the rows; water them 
well, and keep them clear of weeds. When the fruit i8 
young, it is fit for use. Those you want for seed must 
remain till they are yellow and ripe. 

- ^ SOW LOVE APPLES 

About the middle of the month in open ground. The 
fruit is used for soups and pickles. Sow the seed on the 
surface and rake it in. 



ifARCH. 



CAPSICUMS. 

Sow capsicums the middle of this month in the same 
manner as love apples; they make excellent pickles; 
you may transplant in May or April. 

GARLIC AND SHALLOTS. 

Plant them separate?;/ in drills nine inches asunder 
ihe roots six inches apart in the drills ; cover about two 
cr three inches deep. 

S^^LSAFY, SCORZOKEBA, AND SKIRRETS. 

Sow the seeds in an open situation, thinly, on separ- 
ate beds, and rake them in. When the plants come up 
thin them to stand six inches apart ; their roots will be 
fit to use next fall. 

LARGE ROOTED PARSLEY. 

Sow the seed in an open situation on the surface^ 
and rake it in. When the plants are up and strong, thin 
them to stand six inches apart. Their large root is like 
a parsnip, and esteemed by many persons. 

CARDOONS. 

Sow the seed thin on a bed of light earth and rake it 
evenly in. Should the plants come up too thick,thin them 
so as to stand six inches apart ; they will be fit to plant 
out in May or June. The seed may also be sown in 
rows five or six feet apart, four feet apart in the row 
and left till in perfection ; those you plant out, must be 
planted in ridges as you do celery. 

POTATOES. 

Towards the last of this month, you may plant pota- 
toes in any dry soil ; if the ground you intend to plant 
was dunged and ploughed or dug last fall, it will be in 
the best possible condition for producing a good crop 
of potatoes ; it will be now necessary to have it well 
ploughed and harrowed, or if on a small scale, let it- 



|1 KITCHEN GARDEN. 

he well dug ; then let drills be made with the ploQgi 
or hoe, four inches deep, three feet between drill an< 
drill, in which plant cuttings of potatoes, eight inchei 
distance. I prefer planting cuttings of one or morf 
eyes, to any other mode that has yet been adopted^ 
The potatoes, however, ought not to be cut more 
than two or three days previous to their being plant- 
ed. After the earth is returned into the drills to cover 
the potatoes, you may either rake or harrow the sur- 
face smooth. If your ground was not dunged last fail, 
you may make your drills deeper, and lay about two 
inches of horse dung in their bottom. A very slight 
strewing of horn shavings is an excellent manure for 
potatoes, put in the bottom of the drill, or rather 
over the potatoes. A double row of cabbage stumps 
laid in the drill, is also an excellent manure, and sea 
weed laid nearly an inch thick in the drill, will pro- 
duce perhaps the largest crop of all. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Plant those artichokes in almost any kind of ground, 
in rows three or four feet asunder, five inches deep, 
and eighteen inches apart ; the roots taste like arti- 
chokes, have the appearance of a potatoe, and are 
very good from fall to spring ; prepare the sets as po- 
tatoes are preparisd. Those roots are good food for 
cattle and hogs in winter. 

mijyt of all KIjYDS. 

This month make plantations of mint. Take from 
old mint beds, young sprouts of last year's growth, 
that have good roots ; help the roots out by loosening 
the earth with a knife ; plant them on a well dug bed, 
six inches distant from each other. 

ROSEMARY, RUE, c^^c. 

Take from any old bed of rosemary, rue, worm- 
wood, iavenderj offset shoots or suckers^ that rke 



MARCH. 



23 



near, or from the shoots of old plants ; plant them on 
ri shaded border, six inches from each other, and wa- 
ter them well ; or take slips or cuttings and plant in 
like manner. 

%IEDICAL AND POT HERBS. 

Sow fennel, dill, burnett, borage, sorrel, marigolds, 
and other seeds of similar nature, on common earth 
well dug, and rake them in ; they may (if thinned when 
they come up) remain in the beds they are sown upon, 
or you may plant them out in May. Hyssop, savory, 
thyme and sweet marjoram must be sown in like man- 
ner, on rich hght earth, and either thinned when they 
eome up, or transplanted in May. 

HYSSOP, THYME, 4'c. 

Hyssop, thyme and savory may be planted this 
month, m the same manner as directed for rosemary, 
rue, 4"C. this month. 

jYASTURTIUMS, or INDIAN CRESSES, 

Sow the seed in light rich earth, in drills three or 
four feet asunder, and one inch deep; drop the seeds 
two or three inches apart, and cover them with earth. 
When they are six inches above ground, give them 
sti(Jis to climb by ; the flowers, leaves and fruit are 
used for pickles or salads : or drop three seeds in a 
hill, leaving a space in the middle for a stake. 

CHIVES. 

Break old roots into small parts, containing each 
eight or ten small bulbs, plant them with a dibble, 
six or eight inches apart; they will grow into large 
bunches. 

BASIL. 

Sow this &eed the latter end of this month, or abed 
of rich earth and rake it in : when it comes up, plant 
it in drills twelve inches asunder. 

"St 



KITCHEN GARDEK. 



PARSLEY 

May be sown in rows nine inches apart, or on tte 
edges of beds and borders; tread in the seed and rake 
the ground. 

SMALL SALADim. 

Sow radishes, rape, mustard, cresses, 4^c. ence a 
week in drills three inches asunder, cover them lightly 
with fine earth, and wash off any hoar frosts that seize 
the plants, with your watering pot ; this must be done 
in the morning before the sun comes on them. If 
cakes of earth obstruct them when they are appear- 
ing, whisk it off with a slight broom. 

CX)RIANDER AND CHERVIL. 

Sow those seeds separately, in drills nine inches 
asunder, cover them half an inch deep with earth, and 
keep them clear of weeds. 

CELERY. 

This is a better time than last month to sow celery 
for planting out in J^uly. Sow it on rich light earth, 
cover it a quarter of an inch deep, and water it in 
dry weather. There are three kinds ; turnip rooted, 
hollow stalk, and solid stalk. The roots of the former 
swell like a turnip; when it is planted out, it must be 
done on level ground ; the other kinds must be planted 
in trenches. Sow a crop early, and a crop late this 
month, for succession. 

PEAS. 

Sow peas at different times this month, to have suc- 
cessive crops ; this is a good time to sow marrow-fats, 
green Prussian, dwarf prolifics, and dwarf blue impe- 
rial ; sow the large kinds in rows five feet asunder, and 
two inches deep. In dry weather, earth up the peag 
that are above ground, arid stick those that are six 
inches high, unless they are dwarf kinds. 



MARCH. 



TURNIP ROOTED RADISHES. 

Sow white and red turnip-rooted radish seed, sepa- 
rately, in Hght ground, and rake the seed in evenly. 
Thin the plants to five or six inches apart, as soon as 
they have leaves f\?n inch broad. 

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. 

Sow a principal crop this month on light ground in 
an open situation ; dig the ground deep, and break it 
well, else the roots will be deformed ; the seed must 
be sown thinly and evenly, trodden in regularly, and 
then well raked ; if you have not light ground, do not 
tread in the seed ; only rake it in, or sow in shallow 
drills twelve inches asunder, to facilitate weeding. 

RADISHES. 

You may now sow radishes in any warm border, or 
dry sheltered situation ; a light rich soil is the most 
congenial for this root, i have never seen them suc- 
ceed better at this early season, than in the alloys be- 
tween asparagus beds ; after these are dressed, a light 
crop may without the least injury to the asparagus, 
be sowed all over the beds ; the early short top is the 
proper kind to sow at this season. 

ONIONS AND LEEKS. 

This is the proper time to sow onions and leeks. Soxj^ 
them in drills, on rich ground, not wet or stubborn, that 
has had good rotten dung into it, a spade deep ; divide 
the ground into beds, with alleys between, for tlie^ 
convenience of raking and weeding. Sow the seed when 
the ground will rake readily, i. e. fall asunder easily 
under the rake ; if the earth is very light, tread in the 
seed before you rake the beds. 

SPINACH. 

Sow spinach twice this month for a succession of 
crops ; prefer the round leafed, smooth seeded kind. It is 
c 



KITCHEN eARDm 



larger than prickly seed spinach; sow now in ©pen 
situations, broad cast, tread the seed in evenly, and then 
rake the ground ; weed the early crops, and thin them 
six inches apart. What was sown last fall must he well 
weeded, and the earth stirred with a hoe ; if the plants 
are too close, thin them for use, and of those that stand 
wide, crop the large leaves only, till they begin to run. 

CABBAGES. 

About the middle of this month transplant cabbage 
plants into the ground where they are to remain till 
perfect: or it may be done early in the month, if the 
plants are strong, and the weather mild ; plant them 
eighteen inches or two feet asunder, having first dung-ed 
the ground. If the winter plants, sow last fall, are i n- 
jured by frost, sow the seeds of early cabbages during 
this month, viz. sugar-loaf, Yorkshire and Battersea. 
Sow also Dutch red-cabbage seed to raise plants for 
winter and spring use ; all those seeds should be sown 
in open situations. Sow cabbage seed broad cast, and 
rake it in. 

LETTUCES. 

Sow Silesia, green and white cos, white and browu 
Dutch, common cabbage and grand admiral lettuce.^ 
at different times this month for a succession : sow on 
rich ground well broken, the situation open ; sow broad 
cast, and rake the seed hghtly in. Transplant into rich 
ground, plants that have stood the winter, leaving the 
strongest plants ten inches apart: water those you trans- 
plant. 

ASPARAGUS. 

In a situation that enjoys the full sun, and where the 
earth is light and rich, trench the ground, and bury 
plenty of rotten dungin each trench, twelve or sixteen 
inches below the surface. When you have thus prepared 
•a bed four and a half feet wide, and any length you re- 



MARrCff; 



^tiire, stretch a line upon the bed from end to end, nine 
inches froTH the edge, cut out a small trench six inches 
deep, place the plants upright in the trench, ten inches 
asunder, and draw a little earth to the roots, to keep 
the plants in their position. When this trench is plan- 
ted, draw the earth 3^ou took out of it upon the plants, 
and proceed to make another trench parallel to tho 
last, at twelve inches distance ; plant it in like manner, 
and so proceed till the bed is planted ; it will thus con- 
tain four trenches, and have nine hiches of earth out- 
side of the outermost trenches. — Leave an alley two 
feet wide between this bed and the next, and mark the 
alloys with stakes. The plants must be roots o::e or two 
years old, with no top, the former are preferable. Yoa 
may sow a crop of onions on the bed over the plants, 
and rake them in. In three years the asparagus will be 
fit to cut, and will continue to produce twelve or eigh- 
teen years if properly dressed, as directed in the spring; 
and fall months. Plantations may be made with equal 
or more success by sowing seeds instead of planting 
plants, but the crop from seed will be a year longer in 
coming. If the bed is sown with seeds, they must be 
dropped in holes half an inch deep, three or four seeds 
in a hole, the holes nine or ten inches apart, forming 
four rows the length of the bed, and twelve inches 
asunder. Fill the holes with earth, and when the plants 
Gome up pretty strong, thin them, leaving the strong* 
est plant in each hole, and clear them of weeds. 

FORK AND DRESS ASPAK^GUS. 

This month fork asparagus beds ; loosen every patt 
of the earth, but do not go too deep lest you injure 
the crown of the roots. The operation is to^ assist the 
buds to spring up freely, and that the earth may re- 
ceive air and rain ; the beds must be raked before the 
crops begin to appear ; pare the alleys and throW^ a 
fittk earth ©n th« lieds lief©re y@« begia ta forX. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



SOW ASPARAGUS SEED, 

About the middle of this month on a bed of rica 
earth, tread it in, cover it with rich earth an inch deep, 
and rake the bed smooth. When the plants come up, 
water them occasionaity if the weather be dry, and 
keep them free from weeds; these are for planting 
out next spring. See the last article, and the forcing 
of asparagus in January and February ; slaughter- 
house dung is good for those seed beds. 

DRESSING AJVD PLANTING ARTICHOKES. 

If the plants that were trenched up and covered last 
winter begin to shoot strongly, level down the earth, 
as you proceed loosen well all the ground about the 
plants, strip all the shoots or suckers except two or 
three of the strongest on each stool or root, which must 
remain ; close the earth well about the root and suck- 
ers which you leave attached to it. The shoots you 
shp off will make a new plantation, thus — spread 
pi nty of rotten dung (or sheep's dung and ashes) on 
a piece of good ground in an open situation, and dig it 
in. Plant the shoots with a dibble, in rows four feet 
asunder, each shoot distant from the other three feet, 
and six inches deep, water them immediately, and 
ofien until they take root. Next fall, the plantations 
will produce a good crop if it be kept clear of weeds 
and well watered in the summer. It will produce well 
for five or six years, viz. in July and August the three 
first years, and in June or July the last two years. 
The planation will continue longer producing well, if 
no other crops are sov/n among the plants. 

SOW AND PLANT BROCOLI. 

Sow early purple and cauliflower brocoli the middle 
( f the monlh, or earlier if the weather is mild, and 
.some more, at the latter end of the month. They will 
come lip n3st fall: sow the seed broad cast and rake it 



MARCH, 



29 



Take rotten dung, spread it on the ground, and di^ 
or trench it in a spade deep, burying the dung regular- 
ly. Take plants that have stood on borders or under 
frames all winter, plant them two and a half feet asun- 
der in rows, th« rows two and a half feet apart. Yovi 
may sow a crop of radishes or spinach on the ground 
after you plant the brocoli. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Plants raised last month may be pricked out on rich 
earth in a warm situ atioii if the latter end of this month 
is line settled weather. Sow cauliflower seed in a bed 
of rich earui, in a warm situation anytime this month. 
Sow the seed broad cast, and cover it half an inch with 
earth, 

CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

You must form hot beds, to receive the cucumbers 
and melon plants raised last month; earth the beds 
about ten inches, and under the centre of each sash, 
plant one of the pots of plants from the seed bed ; the 
plants can be readily turned out of the pot, with the 
bail of earth entire, and carefully deposited without 
injuring the plants. Your chief care now will be to 
continue a regular heat in the bed, by the addition of 
linings of fresh dung round the bed, as the heat may 
decay; give air and water moderately ; pinch off the 
bud on the point of the first runner ; when the second 
rough leaf is about the size of a cent, is the right time 
to perform this ; it has a great tendency to make the 
plant produce a new set of productive runners, as 
goon as they produce blossoms. The males must be 
taken off as soon as they are completely expanded, 
and apply their centre to that of the females, w^hich 
are.easily distinguished by the embryo fruit under the 
blossom. This is an operation of great importance t» 
their bringing fruit to perfection, and should never be 
omitted to vines in hot beds. 

c 2 



30 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



VINES. 

If you did not finish the pruning of your vines last 
month, it must be done very early this month, because 
they are now apt to bleed when cut. See method of 
pruning in January. 

It is now the proper time to plant cuttings of vines, 
(see the method in February.) Trellises for tying 
the vines to, must be completed this month; they 
should be five feet high, the stakes about three feet 
asunder, and have four cross rails. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Clear the beds of litter and straggling strings that 
remain ; you may also plant strawberries if not done 
last month (see February) but the fall is the proper 
time, (see fall months) as those planted in spring on 
oatural ground will not bear fruit the sunamer follow* 

FRUIT TREES. 

This is a good time to plant fruit trees in general — 
See the different methods in January and February. 

HEAD DOWN BUDDED TREES. 

Young trees and stocks that were liudded last sum- 
mer must be headed down. Cut the head off about four 
iocbes above the place were the bud was inserted. 

ANNUAL FLOWERS. 

Early in March make a hot bed two feet high (see 
formation of hot beds in January, Kitchen-garden) cover 
it six inches deep with rich light earth and sow tender 
annuals upon it ; such as the sensitive plant, ice plant, 
tricolour, amaranthus, &c. &c. Those seeds should 
be covered about an inch deep, and have a glass frame 
or other covering, placed over them immediately, to 
forward them for early flowering. After the heat rises 



MARCH, SI 

giv^e them air daily in fine weather, and moderate wa- 
terings twice or thrice a week. 

Annual flowers, less tender than those mentioned 
above, such as mignionette, palma-cliristi, China-as- 
ter, marvel of Peru, India pink, ten-week stocks, 
French and African marigold, amaranthus, holly-hocks, 
stramoniums, persicarias, &c. &c. may be sown this 
month, on rich light ground, in a warm situation. Sow 
them on beds or borders, and cover them about an 
inch deep. They require to sheltered at night 
under hoop arches with mato over them, or sheds of 
branches or straw: water the flowers in dry weather 
when they appear. Hardy annual flowers, such as mal- 
low, flos adonis, sunflowers; oriental mallow, sweet sul- 
tan ; Lavatera lupines, Spanish nigella, Venus looking- 
glass, candy tuft, Venus navel wort, LobePs catchfly, 
double poppy, snail&, catterpillars, dwarf annual-lychnis, 
convolvolus minor, Belvidera, 4^c. may be sown this 
month, m warm situations, on rich light earth, and will 
want water in dry weather when they appear. 

FLOWERS IJV POTS. 

Auriculas, caranations, hyacinths, and tulips, &c» 
in pots, must be dressed and fresh earthed, if not done 
in February, (see February) and those that require it^ 
iupported with sticks. 

BULBSy viz, CROCUSES, RANUJ^fCUI^SES, 
ANEMONES, ^c. 4^c. 

In severe weather, these flowers must still be protec* 
ted by hoop arches covered with mats, but in fine 
weather may be exposed to the sua. This month ane- 
mones and ranunculeses maybe planted in rich warm 
borders, watering them in dry weather, after they 
appear. 

FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Latter end of this month sow perennial and biennial 
fibrous rooted flowers, viz. pinks, sweet-wiUianis, rose 



FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



campion, catch-fly, Canterbury bells, French honeysuc* 
kle, scabiouses, columbines, Greek valerian, stock Julj 
flowers, carnations, wall -flowers, puifple rag-wort^ 
dwarf sun flowers, snap dragons, kc. These seeds 
and others of the^ame class should be sown in an opea 
situation — sown thin, and raked regularly — the smaller 
seeds a quarter, the larger half an inch deep. Water 
the beds lightly in drj weather. In May or June 
the flowers must be transplanted into richj, light earth 
where they will flower. 

Perennial flowers may €nis month be transplanted 
into beds or borders, from the beds where they were 
planted last year, viz. such as have been mentioned, 
and rockets, campanulas, batchelor's buttons, goldea 
rod, double fever-few, monk's hood, foxgloves, 4^c. 
They will require watering often till fresh rooted, and 
will flower this season. Dwarf flowers with fibrous roots 
may also be planted, and watered till well rooted, viz. 
London pride, violets, double daisies, primrose'', thrift, 
hepaticas, &c. • 

FLOWERING SHRUBS AND TREES. 

This month you may plant jessmines, lilacs, roses, 
4warf, almond, double flowering cherry, bladder nuts, 
mezercons, laburnums, &c. &c. In planting shrubs, 
open the ground so as to receive the roots (having 
pruned off stragglers) without being cramped ; in filling 
the holes shake the trees, that the earth may close 
round the small roots — If the soil is poor, mix dung or 
compost with the earth you put in the holes, after filling 
the holes tread down the earth, water the plants and 
support the tall ones with stakes : if planted in clumps, 
place the tallest plants in the rear, the smallest in front, 
planting at such distances as the ultimate natural growth 
of the plants require. Sow seeds of all kinds of flower- 
iog shrubs and evergreens to raise plants. 



MARCH. 



EDGING OF BORDERS, ^c. 

This is the proper time to plant eding for borders and 
beds, viz. box, thrift, &c. In dry weather water them 
till they are well rooted. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

This is a good time to make grass walks. First level 
and roll the ground — then cut sods of equal size and 
thickness from a pasture, lay them neatly, and roll them 
well or sow grass seed very thick, and rake it in and 
roll the ground as soon as it is dry. Clean grass and 
gravel walks : the latter may be dug, turning the top 
to the bottom, which will destroy the weeds and moss, 
roll them well afterwards. Weed all your flower borders 
well, and prepare more for next month. Water your 
seedbeds and young plants. 

GREEN-HOUSE. 

Many of the green-house plants will be now in 
flower, such as lauristinus, coronilla, stock gilliflo we rs, 
China roses, &c. These plants will require a regu- 
lar supply of water two or three times a week, and 
every mild day, plenty of air ought to be admitted. 
This will make the plants flower strong and profusel3^ 
You may also shift any that requires larger pots. 
Cuttings of roses, myrtles, geraniums, coronillas, and 
others, may now be struck in a moderate hot bed. 



APRIL. 

TURJ\1PS. 

Sow early Dutch turnip-seed on light ground, in a 
warm situation, to come in next May. The ground 
must be well dug and raked, and the seed raked in. 



34 



KITCHEN GARDESr, 



BASIL. 

Sow basil and other sweet herbs this month on rick 
fight earth, well dug and raked ; sow pretty thick 
either in small shallow drills or broad casts; the for- 
£n?r method is preferable ; rake them in lightly ; they 
laay be planted out in May or June. 

POTATOES. 

The beginning of this month is a good time to plan^j 
a general crop of early potatoes, which, after being 
Unished in the same style as directed last month, you 
may also sow a crop of short top radishes over the 
whole. They will be fit to pull by the time the pota- 
toes need hoeing, which ought to be performed as soojj 
as possible after they are come up. 

PEAS. 

Twice or three times this month sow peas as di- 
rected in March, to keep up a succession of crops. 
Earth up peas that have been sown previous to thie 
time, as soon as they are two or three inches above 
ground, and do this when the ground is dry. Stick 
those that are five or six inches high. Marrow-fats 
and other large peas will require sticks six or eight 
feet high ; l)ut sticks five feet high are sufficient for 
the smaller kind. Spanish morottos, dwarf green im- ' 
perial Prussians, green and white marrow-fats and 
other large peas, are the kinds to sow this month, and 
must be in rows four or five feet apart. 

BUSH AND LIMA BEANS. 

About the last of this month, you may plant a few 
©f the liver-coloured or Quaker beans, on a dry soil 
and sheltered situation, in drills two feet apart, an 
inch deep, and about two inches asunder in the drills ; 
a few h'Ms also of the Lima or any other running bean 
maybe planted, though I would advise to defer pl?tat- 



iDg any general crop of these beans till next month, as 
it generally happens that those planted in May, come 
in bearing as coon as those planted in April, and like- 
wise produce the far best crops. 

MELOKGENAS, LOVE APPLES AND CIPSICUMS. 

Sow melongenas, or egg plants ; love apples, op 
tomatoes ; and capsicums, or peppers, this month, as 
directad in last, or on open ground , it must be rich 
and light. 

SCORZOjYERA and SALSAFY, or VEGETABLE 
OYSTER, 

This is a good time to sow these seeds. Sow them 
Inroad cast, in open situations, and rake them in ; thin 
ttiem in May to six inches apart. 

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. 

If not sown before, sow early this month, as di-' 
r.ected in February and March. 

^ NASTURTIUMS. 

Sow seed in rich light earth, in drills an inch 
4eep, and about a yard apart. Sow the seeds tw^ 
inches apart, and cover them up a couple of inches 
deep, or sow in hills three feet apart, three seeds 
in each hill, having a space in the middle for a stake. 

PLANT SWEET AND POT HERBS, 

Plant young sprouts of mint with roots to them, 
as directed last month, or take young sprouts about 
sixteen inches long; cut them into leigtbs of five, 
inches, plant them four inches apart, in rows six- 
inches asunder, and water them well. Plant tansey, 
sorrel, tarragon, chives, camomile, balm, penny- 
roj^al, where they are to remaio. about eight inched 
«part ; choose slips of last year's growth. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Plant sage, marjoram, savory, hj^ssop, thyme, ru«, 
rosemary and lavender, in shady borders. Choose 
slips of last year's growth, six or eight inches long, 
and plant them four or six inches apart, putting them 
halfway in the ground, and watering them well. — * 
Next spring they may be taken up and planted in beds 
or rows about a foot asunder. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

The strongest plants from seed sown early this 
spring, may be planted out where they are to re- 
main. Do this the latter end of this month ; the weak 
plants may remain till the first of June. 

Plants from seed sown last month may be pricked 
(three inches apart) into nursery beds, latter end of 
this month, watering them well. The ground should 
be previously well dunged and dug. In dry wea- 
ther water them twice or thrice a week. 

LEEKS AND ONIONS. 

If you neglected to sow these seeds last month, do 
It early this (see directions in March.) 

CELERY^ 

Plants from seed sown in February and early in 
March, may be pricked out into nursery beds of rich 
light earth ; place them about three inches apart. In 
about five weeks they will be fit to take up and plant 
in trenches. 

Sow celery this month on a bed of rich light earth, 
well dug and raked ; sow the seed pretty thick, rake 
it in, and water it lightly in dry weather; watering 
must be continued after the plants come up. 

ASPABAGUS. 

Your early asparagus beds will now be ready for 
cutting, and tho later beds will want forking and at* 
tention to the heat. See February and March. 



APRIL, 



ARTICHOKES. 

Dress and slip artichokes that want those operations. 
See directions in March. 

Early this mcith make new plantations of artichokes 

directed in March, or s^w seed broad cast on a bed o f 
rich light earth well dug. 

N. B. Shps planted will produce a year sooner than 
seed. 

CABBAGES AjYD MVOYS. 

This is a proper time to transplant early cabbage and 
savoys that were sown this spring; earth up those that 
have been transplanted. 

R.1DISHES. 

Sow salmon and short top radishes two or three times 
this month, for a succession of crops ; sow the seed on 
the surface and rake it in. Weed your early radishes, 
and thin them so as to stand tw^o or three inches asunder 
and water them often in dry weather. Turnip-rooted 
radishes may be sown in moist ground. When the 
leaves are an inch broad, thin and weed them. Trans- 
plant radishes for raising seed as directed in May. 

LETTUCES, 

Dig beds a spade deep, in an open situation, the earth 
rich; sow the seeds on the surface and rake the Li in. 
The best for this month are grand admiral cabbage ; 
also imperial and silesia ; you may sow two or tliree 
times this month. Transplant the lettuces that w ere 
sown heretofore, into rich earth, well dug and raked ; 
place them about ten inches apart, water them imme- 
diately, and in dry weather they will require w^ater oftea 
till well rooted in the earth. Draw the young plants 
from seed beds or nursery teds in such a maimer as to 
leave the others at equal distances. 

D 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



CUCUMBERS. 

The fruit of your early cucumbers will now begin to 
appear ; where you have" not yet done it you must im- 
pregnate the female flower as directed in March. Give 
the hot beds air freely, and water them when dry; 
attend the heat, and temper it as necessity requires ; 
cover the glasses when the nights are cold. Direc- 
tions at large for these purposes will be found in the pre- 
ceding months under the article cucumbers. 

Plant cucumbers any time this month in open ground, 
in hills of rich light earth, about four feet apart, each 
hill containing about half a bushel of earth ; put five or 
seeds in each hill, covering them an inch deep; 
when the plants appear above ground a yellow insect is 
often destructive to them ; they must be killed by hand, 
*>r on large plantations of cucumbers they may be nearly 
destroyed by spreading soot, wood ashes, or unslacked 
lime thinly over the places in the morning before the 
dew goes ofl*. 

MELONS. 

At a great distance from gourds, pumpkins, &c. plant 
melon seeds, that have been kept at least three years^ 
on beds about five feet wide, which must be previously 
prepared by bringing a mixture of new earth and rotteft 
dung. This niust be well dug into the ground the length 
of the bed right along the middle of it ; stretch your 
line along the middle of the bed ; plant your seeds about 
three feet apart, four or five seeds together, an inch 
deep. The best kinds are the nutmeg, Romana, green 
flesh, pine-apple, large rock cantalope, &c. Destroy 
insects when the plants appear — See cucumbers in 
April. 

WATER MELONS. 

Plant water melons in good light ground, in hills tea 
ftet apart ; the hills must be prepared with old ashes. 



APRIL. 



rotten dung* or new earth, and be as large as abusIieL 
Sow three or four seeds in each hill, an inch deep, and 
keep the groand clear from weeds with a hoe, spade 
or plough. Destro}^ insects when the plants appear— 
See cucumbers this month. 

SQUASHES. 

Plant squashes m hills large as a half a bushel each, 
four feet apart ; choose light soil, put three or four seeds 
in each hill, half an inch deep, and when the plants ap- 
]}ear, destroy the insects which generally infest the 
young plants ; it may be done by strewiiig soot, wood- 
ashes, orunslacked lime (in powder) over the plants 
when wet with dew. 

PUMPKINS AND GOURDS. 

Plant pumpkins and gourds in hills of rich earthy 
about the size of a bushel each, and ten feet apart ; put 
iwo or three seeds in each hill two inches deep. When 
the plants come up, destroy the insects on them as di- 
rected for squashes, &c. The farina of these and plants 
of the like nature injures melons if they grow near eack 
^ther. 

OCKRA. 

Plant ockra beans in drills three feet apart ; drop three 
or four seeds in the drills, on spots tv^elve inches asun- 
der and cover them up. When the plants appear two 
or three inches above ground, thin them, leaving the 
best plant on each spo . 

GK^FTING. 

Early or the middle of this month is the best time for 
grafting: it is performed in different methods, the best 
are the following : 

Cleft Grafting— Cut oif the head of your stock at the 
height you please, cleave it with a strong knife across 
the middle, so deQp ^ to adiiiit the jraftj then cit about- 



40 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



an inch and an half length of the top of the stock in a 
sloping manner, that the top may he reduced to half its 
fiiameter, observe the sloping cut must he across the 
cleft ; your graft or scion should be four or five inches 
long, and should have four or six eyes: cut the lower 
end of it into the shape of a wedge about two inches long 
leaving double the quantity of wood on one side the pith 
that you do on the other, so that one side will show 
double the bark the other does. Open the cleft with a 
chissel inserted at the sloped side of the stock, place the 
graft in the cleft, keeping the bark side of the graft to 
the back side of the stock, so that the two rinds may 
meet exactly — remove the chissel, tie the graft and 
stock firmly together with a soft bandage, and cover 
the bandage w^ith grafting clay, which cover must be 
made of an oval form, extending an inch above the top 
of the stock, as much below the bottom of the graft, 
and thick enough effectually to exclude rain and sun. 
The graft must be frequently examined, and if any 
clay falls off or is cracked, repair the covering. In 
June the clay and ban5ag^§ msy ^-3 -^^n off, as the 
grafts and stocks will by that time be united. 

Whip Grafting is generaly performed upon small 
slocks with grafts of nearly the same diameter. Cut 
Tour stock at the height you wish it, cut it off where 
the rind is smooth — pare off the rind and part of the 
wood on one side of the stock, about two inches in 
length, and sloping upwards— cut your grafts sloping 
to fit the stock exactly — then cut a slit or tongue in the 
graft, extending upwards half an inch, cut a slit in the 
stock downwards to receive the tongue — having placed 
the graft upon the stock thus, the rinds meeting ex^ 
•dctly, tie them together firmly with- a soft bandage, 
;ind immediately cover the bandage with clay, (see 
•;:]eft grafting above.) 

Croum grafting is performed upon stocks that will 
Hot cleave readily, and upon branches of trees (parti- 



•APRIL^ 

mhi\y apples and pears) whose fruit is to be chrxiged 
to a better kind. 

Cut off the t6p of the trees or branch level, and 
pare it smoothV-cut yoar graft to have a small shoul- 
der about two iiK^s from the end, for resting upon 
the top of the stock, and from that shoulder slope the 
graft away on one side to a flat point at the end ; pare 
away a little bark on each side of the circular part of 
the graft — with a wj^dge, flat on one side, circular on 
the other; open a place between the bark and wood 
of the stock, large enough to admit' the graft anci 
thrust it in, so that the shoulder will rest on the 
stock — in driving the w^edge keep the^ ^at side to the 
wood, that the round Bide may make room for the 
round part of tne graft. 

Thus several grafts may be placed on oi?e branch 
or tree. When done, bind them w^ell on, and cover 
with clay so as to pr^n^ent water from lodging on the 
top of the stock or getting to the grafts — those grafts 
will be well united to the ensuing summer ; in the mean 
time it is necessary to secure them from being b^.>wn 
away, by fastening stakes firmly to the stocks, and ty* 
ing them to the grafts. Crown grafting will be done 
most easily the latter end of this month or begiunins.' 
of May, because the sap being rising, the bark will 
part from the wood better. — The clay covering nius* 
he examined occasionally and repaired if necessary. 

OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 

Your grafte must be last year's shoots — they may 
be taken from the trees on which they grow, either 
when you are going to use them, or a few weeks be- 
fore, provided you lay the lower end of - them in dry 
earth in a w^arm situation, and shelter them well from 
severe weather : shoots for grafting aexi iTio-Ah, should 
be cut this month, and laid up in this maun . , because 
" the buds will swell fast the latter end of this month, 
D 2 



FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



And soon after be too far a^^dvanced to take kindly witli 
the stocks. 

Graft apples upon stocks raised from kernels of 
apples, or crab apples. The kernels may be sown 
in^ February or November, in beds about three feet 
wide ; sow them pretty thick, and cover an inch, or 
an inch and an half deep with earth — if not sown till 
Februarys you must keep the kernels in sand^ — the 
jdants will appear in six weeks i^pext fall, or spring- 
following, the largest maybe planted in nursery beds ; 
the second or third year they will be in order to graft 
on for dwarfs — the fourth or fifth year, in order to 
graft on, for standards. 

Graft pears on stocks raised from kernels of pears 
or quinces — sow kernels of pears, and attend the 
plants in t^ae manner just directed for apples. Graft 
cherries on stocks raised from cherry stones, either 
of black or red cherries — sow the stones in October 
or November, on beds about lour feet wide, covering 
them about two inches with earth. 

The second year after sowing they will be fit to 
plant in nursery beds— the fourth year fit to graft or 
bud for dwarfs and espaliers, and the sixth year fit 
to graft for standards. Graft plumbs on stocks raked 
from plumb-stones. Sow the stones in the fall (say 
October or November) in beds, covdring them with 
about two inches of earth ; transplant them into 
nursery beds next fall or spring following ; in two or 
three years they will be fit to graft upon. Stones of 
cherries and plumbs may be kept in sand over winter, 
and sown in February or March. Stocks of fruit trees 
may be raised from suckers and cuttings, but those 
from seecf are generally stronger. 

FINES. 

Vifies may be planted this month, or may be propa- 
gated by layers, if not done before (see February and 
March) but it is now rather late. 



APRIL. 



DRESS FIjYES, 

Rub off all shoots that appear on old branches, 
unless the shoots are wanted to till vacancies, for 
shoots from old branches rarely produce fruit. On 
last year's wood, where two shoots come from one 
eye, rub off the worst, else they will impoverish each 
other, and neither bear good fruit. This operation 
of rubbing off useless shoots, is to be performed with 
the finger and thumb. All superfluous shoots must 
be rubbed off, so that what remain may have room to 
be trained regularly along the trellises, and receive 
the benefit of the sun. In the vineyard, hoe up 
weeds between the vines, in dry weather ; and if not 
done before, drive stakes iirmly in the ground, and 
tie the vines gently, first rubbing olf all useless side 
shoots, and shoots from old wood. 

BUDDED TREES, 

The trees that were oudded last summer must be 
examined ; any shoots that come on the stock must be 
cut off close, and the young shoots above the stock 
be examined and cleared from insects ; if you see the 
leaves curled up, pluck them off, as insects are the 
cause. 

PLANT FRUIT TREES. 

Fruit trees may be planted early this month, if 
not done before, as plumbs, cherries, apples and 
pears ; but it is rather late for peaches, apricots and 
nectarines. The trees you plant now, water very 
well immediately, and frequently in dry weather, till 
they take root. 

ESPALIERS. 

Rub off all shoots that appear in such situations 
that they cannot be trained, and all superfluous side 
shoots— but retain as many of the latter for training 
as you have room for. 



■H FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRIIBS. 



STKIWBERIUES. 

Keep your slrawberrv hed^ clean from weeds ; co- 
ver the beds with straw or grass to keep the fruit 
clean ; frequently water the beds that are in bloom, 
to swell the fruit. 

FLOWERING SHRUBS AXD EVERGREENS. 

Seeds of evergreen and flowering shrubs may be 
sown early this month, in beds of light earth, cover- 
ing them from half an inch to tivo inches deep, accord- 
ing to their size. What has been sown before this 
month, must be kept clear from weeds^ and lightly 
watered : frequently in dry weather. 

Those that were sown last year, may be pricked 
out into nursery rows, distant from six inches to thirty, 
according to their growth. Hollies may be granted, 
viz. tlie variegated kinds upon common holly stocks. 
See mode of grafting in March. 

INARCHING. 

Shrubs are often grafted by inarching, which is 
performed thus: — The stock upon which j-ou graft, 
and the tree from which you take a graft, must be 
so near each other, that the graft where it grows 
can be brought to touch the stock; because the 
graft is not to be cut from itg parent till some months 
after the operation, neither is the head of the stock 
to be cut off till that time. The shrubs being in this 
situation, take the branch you wish to graft, bring it 
to touch the body of the stock, where they are of an 
equal thickness, pare away part of the bark and wood 
of each, in such a manner that thoy will fit each 
other, rind joining rind ; cut a thin tongue in the 
branch upwards and a slit downwards in the stock to 
receive the tongue tie the branch and stock together 
with a soft bandage, and cover it w^ith clay to keep 
mi air and sun; drive a stake firmly in the ground^ 



APRIL. 



4.5 



and tie the trees so that the wind cannot displace the 
graft : the head of the stock must not be cut, nor the 
graft cut from its parent for three or four months. 



Latter end of April transplant tender annuals sown 
in hot beds, into borders of rich light earth, in warm 
situations, and at the same time sow seeds of the same 
kinds of flowers in open ground in warm situations — 
also cockscombs, tricolours, double balsams, globe ama- 
ranthus, ice plants, &c. They require to be shel- 
tered at night and in cold weather, with hoop§» and 
mats, and to be watered lightly in warm Aveather, 
after they appear. 

Less tender annuals, as chrysanthimums, winter 
cherry, zinnia, various kinds of amaranthus and others 
mentioned last month, may be sown this ; they must be 
3own in vick light earth, on borders or patches where 
they are to remain. 

Hardy annuals must be sown this month, viz. lu- 



hawk-weed, devil in a bush, dwarf lychnis, Venus 
aavel-wort, convolvolus, major and minor, tangier and 
sweet scented peas, nasturtiums, virgin stocks, Venus' 
looking-glass, sun-flowers, oriental mallov/, &c. Sow 
there seeds where they are to remain, and water them 
in dry weather, after they appear ; if they come up 
too thick, draw as many as are necessary and trans- 
plant them either into pots or elsewhere. 

MIGNIONETTE AND TEjY-^WEEK STOCK. 

Sow these this month; they will be fit to transplant 
in May and June. 

mJlCINTHS AND OTHER FLOWERS IN POTS. 

Choice flowers planted in pots must be sheltered 
from the sun when very hot, by drawing mats over the 
hoops : al§Q from heavy rains, and at ni^ht in bad we^f 



ANNUAL FLOWERS. 




sultans, flos adonis, poppy. 



46 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS, 



tlier. The stalks that, are too weak for the flowers, 
must be supported with sticks. 

aiBJ\''ATIO^'S AND PINKS, 

Sow carnations and pinks this month, on good light 
earth, Vvcil dug and raked level ; sow the seed pretty 
thick, rake it in lightly about a quarter inch deep — 
water them frequently in dry weather. 

POLYANTHUS AND AURICUR^S. 

Sow polyanthus and auricula seeds this month, on 
g^ootl light earth not much exposed to the sun: sow 
them pretty thick and rake it in lightly ; w^hen the 
plants appear, keep them well weeded : in July or 
August they should be pricked out on a border shaded 
from the sun, and watered. Those raised from seed 
last year will now be in bloom, and the best may be 
transplanted by themselves. 

FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Biennial and perennial flowers, with fibrous roots, 
3aaay be sown this month; such as stock July flower?, 
columbines, sweet Williams, wall-flowers, Greek va- 
lerian, holly-hocks, French honey-suckles, catch-fly, 
rose campions, kc. sow them in beds or borders of 
rich earth, the larger seeds half an inch, and the 
rimaller a quarter of an inch deep. Water them often 
in dry weather, both before and after they come up.- 

Transplant, this month, biennial and perennial plants 
with fibrous roots, as golden rods, asters, Canterbury 
bells, scabiouses, campalunas, sun-flowers, rose-cam- 
pion, Jychnises, rockets, batchelors' buttons, sweet 
Williams, carnations, holly-hocks, gentiannella, Lon- 
don pride, camomile, primroses, fraxinella, double la- 
dies-smock, double ragged-robin, thrift, everlasting 
peas, ^c^ and water tfeem. 



APRIL. 



47 



TUBEROSES. 

Plant tuberoses in rich light earth, in a warm sicaa- 
tion, two or three inches deep, about twelve inches 
apart. They w^ll blow in July — they may be propa- 
gated by offsets from the main root, taken off either 
before you plant the roots, or when you take up the 
roots — the offsets may be planted in dry light earth, 
sheltered with mats till May : in dry weather water 
Ihem ; next October or September the leaves will fail 
off, when the roots must be taken up and preserved 
for planting next spring. Take them up the follow- 
ing fall, and the year following they will flower. 

AURICULAS IJV POTS. 

Those in bloom must be protected from the hot 
«un, from heavy showers and wind ; those you intend 
for seed must (when the flowers begin to fade) be 
plunged into a border where they will have th^ morn- 
ing sun, and be sheltered at ten or eleven o'clock. 
Keep them from weeds, and water them in dry w^eather ; 
in June or July, gather the seed pods as they ripen. 

Auriculas are also propagated by suckers from 
the sides and roots of the old plant. This month 
plant suckers in pots or borders, in a shady situa- 
tion, and water them frequently in dry weather—by 
this mode you can increase your stock of favorite 
flowers; but when you raise from seed, there is no 
certainty that the youag flowers will be exactly like 
the old ones. Seedlings sown last fall must be shel- 
tered from the noon sun, and the boxes in which thuy 
grow removed the latter end of this month to a shady 
place. Auricula seeds may be sown early this month. 

BALM OF GILEAD 

Seed may be sown in a warm situation, on rich 
earth ; sow the seed and manage the plants as directed 
for the hardy annuals. 



48 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

Mow and roll grass walks three or four times tins 
month — gravel walks should now be dug, turned and 
rolled, if not done last month; in either case roll them 
twice a week or oftener ; attend carefully to the de- 
struction of insects and weeds, and to the watering of 
the garden in general in dry weather. 

GREEN-HOUSE, 

In no season of the year will your green-house 
make a more conspicuous appearance than this. — - 
Many of the plants will now he in full bloom ; most of 
them in a free state of growth ; and a^ the weather 
will often be very mild, you must admit air very freely 
every good day, and water abundantly. Cuttings of 
myrtles, geraniums, ro3es and many other sorts, may 
»ow be struck freely in a moderate hot bed. 



MAY. 

MELONS. 

Continue to plant melons as directed in April. Re- 
member to destroy insects which infest your plants ; 
for the method of performing this, and the difTerent 
kinds to be sown, see April. Plant melons distant 
from gourds, punripkins, &c. else the farina of the lat- 
ter will injure the melons. 

CUCUMBERS. 

Continue to plant cucumbers as directed in April. 
You will now have crops in your hot beds ready for 
use. The plants of last month will be above ground, 
and re q aire close attention to the destruction of in- 
sects. See the method in April. 



MAY. 



GOURDS JLYD PUMPKINS, 

Continue to plant gourd -5 and pumpkins, &c. as di- 
rected in April. Destroy the insects on the plants of 
last month, by strewing wood ashes, soot or unsJacked 
lime in powder, over the plants, when the dew is upon 
them. 

BEETS, 

Draw such beets as are too close, and plant those 
you draw, about ten inches apart, leaving what remain 
at the same distance. 

POLE AND BUSH BEANS. 

Continue to plant bush beans, particularly the run- 
ning kinds, which plant about three and a half feet 
asunder ; they will require slicks to climb on. Scar- 
let flowering beans Lima beans, and the large white 
Dutch running kinds, are ver}^ proper to plant this 
month, and may be dropt three or four inches apart 
in the drills, covering the m equally with earth an inch 
and a half deep. The running kinds planted last 
month will now require sticks to climb by ; and the 
better you supply them with sticks, the more they 
will produce ; the sticks maybe ten feet long; dwarfs 
may be planted if you cannot get sticks easil}^ but 
runners are more productive. 

CAPSICUMS, OR PEPPERS, 

Plant out the capsicums that w^ere soivn in March; 
plant them a foot apart in rich light earth, raked 
smooth, and water them ; youma}^ also sow more seed, 
as directed in March. 

LOVE APPLES, OR TOMATOES, 

Plant out the love apples that were sown ia March; 
plant them near fences, along w^hich they must be 
trained and tied as they branch out, or stakes may be 

E 



50 



KITCHEN GARDE>r 



driven in the ground to tie them to. Water them 
as soon as planted ; they may be planted three feet 
apart. 

ARTICHOKES. 

Cutoff the small heads that grow on the sides, if 
you want the main heads to grow very large, and weed 
them well. 

ASPAmOUS. 

Continue to cut asparagus, the buds of which hare 
got from three to six inches long ; w^hen above five 
or six inches long, they don't eat so well as younger 
buds ; thrust your knife down close by the shoot you 
want to cut, that you may not wound adjacent ones ; 
cut them slanting upwards, about four inches below 
the surface. With a hoe, clear away all the weeds in 
dry weather. 

LETTUCES. 

Sow coss, admiral cabbage, and Silesia lettuces, 
two or three times this month, for a succession of 
crops ; sow now in moist ground, and water frequently 
in dry weather. Transplant lettuces from beds sown 
i^i March and April; do this in showery weather ; 
plant them twelve inches apsrt in moist ground, well 
dug and raked; water them immediately, and repeat 
the watering frequently in dry weather. 

PARSNIPS AND CARROTS. 

Thin and weed your carrots and parsnips with a 
hoe or by hand, leaving them six inches apart ; those 
that are pretty well grpwn may be thinned for use ; 
those more backward, intended for main crops, should 
be thinned at once to eight inches distant, that they 
ir»ay have room to attain their full size. 



« 



MAY. 



51 



PLAXT CABBAGES AXD SAFOYS. 

Transplant from 3'Our spring seed beds, early cab- 
bage and savoys ; plant them about tvv o feet apart, or 
in rows between peas or beans; this should be done 
in moist ^veather. Earth up cabbage that have here- 
tofore been planted, to strengthen them. Those that 
are forming into hearts sliould be assisted, by tying 
them with a bandage of twigs, gathering the leaves to- 
gether, but the bandage must not be drawn too tight, 
else the cabbage will be apt to rot. 

PLAJVT CAULIFLOWERS. 

Plant out cauliflowers from beds sown in March or 
April ; plant them in good rich earth, two feet and a 
half apart : take the opportunity of doing this after a 
shower, if possible ; if not, water them immediately, 
and repeat the watering frequently in dry weather, 
making little mounds of earth round the plants to con- 
tain the water. Examine those that ha^e been plant- 
ed heretofore, and where you find the flower forming, 
break dowTi some of the largest leaves, so as to cover 
it from sun and rain, which will otherwise discolour 
the flower. 

SOW CAULIFLOWERS 

Early this month sow for your fall crop of cauli- 
flowers. When the plants have acquired such growth 
as to have three leaves an inch broad each, prick them 
into a nursery bed, about three inches apart ; the seed 
mast be sown pretty thick, carefully raked in lightly 
and watered frequently in dry weather. 

BROCOLL 

Sow white and purple brocoli twice this month, to 
have a succession; plant them out in July ; they will 
have heads early next year and yield nice sprouts after- 



52 KITCHEN GARDEN. 

wards ; sow the seed in rich earth, and rake it well 
and even, in an open situation. 

SOW CABBAGES AND SAVOYS, 

This is the proper time to sow cabbage and savoys 
tor winter crops, they wdll be lit to transplant in July ; 
they will hav^e good heads in October, and continue in 
order for use till next spring. 

ATTENTION TO BEANS IN BLOSSOM, 

Top your small early beans (if you wish to have 
very earl}'^ crops) as soon as the bottom blossoms be- 
gin to open. The early mazagan bean may be topped 
when the stalk is eighteen inches high, and the large 
sorts when thirty inches high. By topping your beans 
the pods will siet sooner and swell faster ; the nourish- 
ment from the root going to the pods, which nourish- 
ment would go to the tops if not cut off. When beans 
are ripe, cut them off rather than pull them. 

POTATOES, 

Early this month earth up potatoes that were plant- 
'ed early in spring. 

ONIONS, 

Keep your onions well weeded ; thin those that 
stand too close ; leave them standing four or five inches 
apart, except such as you are thinning daily for use; 
thp^e may remain close. 

SOW PEAS. 

Continue to sow peas (three or four times this month) 
\lz, green imperial and dwarf prolific, marrow-fats, 
Knight's tali honey, hotspurs of various kinds and dwarfs, 
Earfh up peas that require it as the crops succeed each 
other, and keep them clear of weeds ; top those that are 
in blossom (as directed for beans this month) also stick 
peas that have advanced two ox three inches above 



MAY. 



g^round ; they will produce better crops for doing it. 
The larger kinds of peas require sticks about seven 
feet high, the smaller kinds about five or six feet, ac- 
cording to the height the}^ grow; the sticks should 
have twigs from tiieir sides, extending lengthways 
along the rows for the tendrils to catch hold of. The 
sticks should also be placed on the southern and east- 
ern sides of the plants, because they incline that way 
to the sun. Your earliest crops will now be ready 
for gathering. 

RADISHES, 

Continue to sow salmon, short-top, and turnip -root- 
ed radishes (twice or thrice this month) water all your 
radishes in dry weather, and keep them well weeded. 
See directions for sowing in former months. 

In wet weather transplant radishes for seed ; choose 
long straight roots with short tops, the roots of a pale 
red colour ; dibble them in two or three feet asunder; 
if the weather is not w^et, water them well. 

POT HERBS, i^c. 

You may sow coriander, chervil, thyme, savory, 
marjoram and other pot herbs this month, as directed 
in former months, and water them frequently. 

CELERY. 

Prick out celery from your seed beds into a nur 
sery bed of rich light earth, the rows about six inches 
asunder, and the plants about three inches apart : 
water them frequently; a situation shaded from the 
sun is the best. 

Sow a plentiful crop of celery in rich light earth, 
well dug; and levelled; sow the seeds tolerably thick 
and rake ihexa in. In hot weather shelter them from 
the sun in the middle of ihe day till the plants come 
up and in dry weather water tbem three or four 
& 2 



bi FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



times a week ; they will be nt to plant out in July and 
August, and ht for use next fall and spring. 

CARDOOJVS. 

Those which were sown before this time must be 
thinned if they stand too close ; prick some plants into 
a nursery bed, four or five inches apart, and leave 
the remainder at the same distance. - 

Basil and other sweet herbs may be planted this 
month in rich light earth, in rows a foot asunder, the 
plants six inches apart. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

This month continual care and attention is required 
to destroy vv^eeds, and iur dry weather to water your 
crops often, particularly, keep plants, lately planted, 
watered frequently. Well water^s not fit for this pur- 
pose without previous exposure to the sun twenty-four 
hours. Pond and ditch water is the best, not only be- 
cause it is in a temperature congenial to the eartli, 
but because it contains a* quality nutritious to the 
plants. Some crops that stand close, must be weed- 
ed before the weeds acquire much growth, and that 
by hand ; those which stand far asunder may be done 
with the hoe. 

ESPALIER FRUIT TREES. 

Apples, pears, plumbs and cherries will now re- 
quire pruning and training — cut off useless ill-growing 
shoots that cannot be trained— also superfluous shoots 
for which you have not room — train the remainder 
their full length because the fruit is produced in 
greater abuadance towards the extremities ; however, 
where wood is wanted, or likely to be wanted next 
year, shorten s©me good shoot that they may produce 
the wood wanted (see directions in January.) Apricots, 
peaches and nectarines will also require pruning and 
training this months in the same manner as apples, 



MAY, 



55 



pears, k,c, (see directior.s above and in Janrary.) 

Stai.'krd fr-iit trc^s will rv'(|T:iire Ic; Udy\^ u^^eless i i:cls 
rubbed olf and stakes driven in to ^iu; port young plant- 
ed trees. 

When the fruit on nectarines, apricots and peaches 
come so thick as to touch each other, pull the worst 
fruit that the remainder may have room to swell and 
.have sufficient nourishment. If insects attack the 
trees, they siiould be smoked with tobacco smoke, or 
have tobacco dust strewed over them — watering* the 
branches and leaves in dry weather w^ill also tend t® 
destroy insects. 

VLYES, 

Clear vines of useless young shoots by pruning them 
before they begin to entangle. All the shoots that 
show young fruit upon them must remain, be trained 
regularly, and tied up. Such shoots also as are strong, 
and well situated for training in, to produce shoots for 
next 3/ ear must remain. This being done, all shoots 
that rise in any part of the vines afterwards, must be 
rubbed off as they appear. — In general, this spriog 
pruning may be done without a knife, by the finger 
and thumb. In the vineyard, the vines must be cleared 
of small dangling shoots, also of those that show no ap- 
perance of fruit. Those that have fruit and those that 
are well situated (and strong) for service next ysar, 
must be trained close and regular to the stakes — clear 
ground well from weeds, as this will improve the fruit 
much. After this time the young shoots that appear 
must be rubbed off immediately. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Early this month strawberries will want water 
thrice a week in dry weather. Give as much water 
as will reach the roots — otherwise the fruit will be 
poor. 



B§ FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS, 



J^^EJV^ CfMFTED AjYD NEW BUDDED TREES: 

Repair the clay coveriags od trees lately grafted' 
where the grafts are not perfectly united to the 
stocks. When shoots appear on the stocks of trees 
that have heen badded last summer, rub tlie shooti 
off close that the buds may hare all the nourish* 
ment from the roots. 

YOUNG PLANTS. 

Water those you have planted in March and Aprils 
at least once a week, in dry weather, and defend 
the roots of the tender kinds by laying some earth 
or dung round them to_ keep the roots from bein^ 
hurt by the sun. Water every second day in dry 
weather, jour seedling plants, whether above ground 
or not, some of the tender kinds will also want a 
shelter from the hot sun. 

TUUPS. 

Take up roots o^ tulips who«e leaves and stetns 
begin to decay, clear the roots from earth and loose 
skins^ — dry the roots in a shady place and put them 
up for future planting. Take the seed pods oif tu- 
lips that are done flowering, particularly the best 
kinds, the seed will impoverish the roots if they are 
sulfered to ripen. 

HYACINTHS, 

W^hen the leaves of those flowers begin to decay 
after flowering, take up the roots, lay them sidewayg 
in a ridge of dry earth thrown up for the purpose, 
the stems and leaves hanging downwards on the side 
of the ridge — they may lie here three weeka» that 
the moistp.re in the roots may evaporate gradually; 
thep take them up, clear them of the stalks, leave* 
^tnd earth, and lay them a week or ten days to hardea 



MAY. 



57 



111 a dry place before you put them up for next plant- 
ing season. 

FALL CROCUSSES, A'ARCISSUS, Src 

Bulbous roots that flower in the fall will now have 
their leaves decayed. Every two qj- three years 
the roots of these flowers should be taken up, and 
this is the best month to do it ; take them up in dry 
weather, separate the off*setts from the main root, and 
dry the whole in the sun, to be planted in July or 
August — or they may be planted now, either main 
roots or oflsetts — main roots will flower in the fall. 

AjYjYUAL flov/ers. 

Transplant tender annuals this month, if not done 
before, as cockscombs, tricolours, egg-plants, globe 
amaranthus, balsams — also, those less tender, as hol- 
lyhocks, mavel of Peru, persicaria, mignionette, 
China-asters, amaranthuses, African and French mari- 
golds, India pink, ten-weeks stock, scabiouses, &c. 
Transplant them in showery weather. Sow hardy 
annuals, as LobeFs catchfly, sweet sultans, lupines, 
w^hite and purple candy tuft, fios Adonis, dwarf pop- 
py, Venus' navel wort, Venus^ looking-glass, virgins 
stock, &c. 

SEEDING BULBS. 

Screen your seeding bulbs in the heat of the day 
from the sun. 

AURICULAS. 

Remove those (in pots) that are done flowering 
into a place where they will have the morning sun 
only; also seeding aurieulas, and vfater them lig-htly, 
frequently ; plant offsetts in a shady place till Fall, 

WALL FLOWERS. 

Plant slips of wall fiOwers in a shady place and 
water them often ; take the slips of strongest growth^ 



FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



elear the stems half way up from leaves before joia- 
plant them; the slips must be taken off joung shoot*, 
from the head. These flowers raised last year frora 
seed will now be in bloom. 

TUBEROSES. 
Plant roots 'in pots, filled v/ith rich light earthy 
©ne root in each pot. Cover the root three inches 
deep, pla.ce the pots in a warm situation, and water 
them twice or thrice a week ; those flowers grow ia 
©pen ground very well. 

FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS, 
Plant cuttings of those kinds that have strong flower 
stems ; cut off* the young flower stalks close, divide 
them so as to have each three or four joints ; plant the 
cuttings four inches apart, putting two of the joints 
below the surface of the earth : a shady place is the 
best to plant it^ — draw the earth close to the plants 
and water them. 

PERENNIAL AND BIENNIAL FLOJVERS, 

Transplant perennial and biennial flowers (that 
were sown in March or April) into borders wheie 
they are to remain, or into nursery beds. Early this 
month sow more perennials and biennials, in ground 
-well dag and raked, covering the seeds about half an 
inch deep. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 
Support wdth sticks such flowers as have long stems 
and require support — destroy weeds as they appear — 
mow grass walks — roll gravel and grass walks — take 
showery weather to transplant in — water young plant- 
ed trees and seedling beds, and destroy insects that 
appear on trees and plants. 

GREEN-^HOUSE. 
This is now a proper season f jr shifting orange and- 
lemon trees where necessary. These trees o^ght t© 



JUNE. 



o3 



be shifted every two or three years ; the outside roots 
and part of the earth pared off; or if the trees are 
sickly, let the old brJl be entirely shook fronn the 
roots and plant in good ricli garden soil. The heads 
of the trees may now either be thinned or shortened, 
to renew or regulate it as may be necessary. Any 
other plants that require may now be shifted safely ; 
and towards the middle of this month, you may remove 
the whole out of the house. Cuttings of geraniums, 
myrtles, kc, will now strike in any rich border of the 
garden. 



JUNE. 

POTATOES. 

Plant potatoes for a winter crop (see March for 
the method of planting.) Take up what remain of 
early spring planting. 

MELO^^S, 

Melons must be thinned this month — leave in eack 
Mil three or four plants ; draw out the worst planti 
and earth up the others to the seed leaves ; plough or 
hoe between the plants frequently, so as to increase 
the size of the hills and destroy weeds. 

CUCUMBERS. 

Sow cucumber seed this month, as directed in April 
any of the long kinds, Turkey, <^c. are best to sow 
now. Plants a few inches above ground may now be 
examined and cleared of insects, as directed in April. 
Keep them well weeded. 

SQUASHES, PUMPKIKS AND GOURDS. 

This month you may plant more squashes, pumpkini 
and gourds, as directed in April, and clear the young 
crops of insepts, as there directed. 



60 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



CELERY, 

The celery seed so war early will now have pro- 
duced plants fit to plant into trenches to blanch. Make 
trenches in g-ood ground, a foot wide, three feet 
apart, a spade deep; lay the earth on each side of the 
trenches and dig their bottoms, leaving them level ; 
if the ground require it, put some rotten dung in the 
bottom of the trenches, and dig it in six inches deep. 
Place the plants along the trenches, upright, abnut six 
inches apart, and water them ; in fonr or five weeks 
draw earth to each side^f the plants, breaking it fine ; 
do this in dr}^ weather, and be careful not to bury the 
hearts ; repeat the earthing once in ten days till the 
" plants are fit for use. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Those sown in May may be pricked out into nur 
sery beds, three inches apart ; water theui frequent- 
ly. Next month they will be fit to transplant into 
the ground where they are to come to perfection. 
Those caulifiow^ers which begin to iiower, must have 
the large leaves broken over the flowers to save 
them from the sun beams, and have a couple of 
plentiful waterings. Some of the best caulidowers 
that stood the winter, having large white cic?e he^.ds, 
must be left for seed, which will be fit to gadier 
about September. Support the seed plants Vvith sticks, 
to w^hich tie them. 

BEETS. 

Early this month clear your beets from weeds, and 
where they stand too close cut them out to stand ten 
or twelve inches asunder, or drav%^ the small plants 
and plant them in good ground at the same distance 
from each other. 



JUNE. 



61 



CMROrs AND PARSNIPS, 

Clear away all weeds, and thin the plants (that are 
to stand till they attain their full growth) to the dis- 
tance of about seven inches apart ; others may be thin- 
ned by degrees for use. 

ONIONS, 

Onions so^vn in spring, require very great attention 
to weeding, and they must be thinned to stand four or 
five inches apart, unless such as are for more imme- 
diate use ; those may be= thinned where they stand in 
clusters, and afterwards thinned as wanted for use. 
Those sow^n last fall must have the buds nipped out, 
else they will go tQ seed, and be pulled when at their 
full growth. 

BROCOLL 

Transplant from the seed bed, into nursery bed?, 
young plants ; place them three or four inches asun- 
der, water them well immediately, and twice a week 
in dry weather. 

ASPARAGUS. 

About the middle of this month, it will be time to 
quit cutting asparagus, otherwise it will not bear well 
next year ; clear away all weeds before your plants 
run up stalks, and carefully weed that which was sown 
and planted in spring. 

BUSH BEANS. 

Plant more bush beans, as directed in May, water- 
ing the drills before you plant; stick such of the for- 
mer plantings as are about three inches above ground. 

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS. 

The latter end of this month f;^lant out a full crop 
for winter uSe — also the red cabbage sown in spring ; 

F 



62 



KITCHEN SARDEN. 



plant them about two feet and a half asunder, and in 
showery weather. 

MINT, Sr c 

Cut mint of various kinds when it begins to flower, 
and spread it to dry in an airy room, excluded from 
the sun ; take dry weather to cut, when the plants are 
quite dry. 

POTHERBS. 

Hyssop, marjoram, thyme and savory, may be plant- 
ed out from the seed bed in showery weather ; place 
them pibout seven inches apart, and water them well 
in dry weather. Marigolds, burnet, clary, borage^ an- 
gelica, &c, &c. that were sown last spring or autumn, 
may be planted out, about fourteen inches apart, aad 
well Avate red. 

BASIfj, PEPPERS AND TOMATOES, 

May be planted out as directed in May, if not done 
then : showery weather is best for removing plants of 
all kinds. 

SHALLOTS AND GARLIC, 

If wanted for use, may now be taken up, see July^ 
which is the proper time. 

SALSAFY, SCORZONERA, ^c. 

Thin these plants to six iaches apart, and cleEO* them 
ef weeds. 

CARDOONS. 

Plant cardoons in trenches (as directed for celery 
in July) about five feet asunder — the plants about four 
feet apart, and water them well — they require very 

food ground, well dug, and must be earthed up in 
uly. See directions then for so doing it. 



JUNE. 



C3 



ARTICHOKES. 

When you cut artichokes for use, cut the stem close 
fo the ground, else it will impoverish the root; all this 
month artichokes will be fit for use. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 
All your crops wiU require attention to weeding ; 
and to watering in dry weather. New planted crops 
will want to be shaded from the sun in dry hot wea* 
ther, particular!}^ from eight to five o'clock. Gather 
seeds of different kinds as they ripen — do this in dry 
weather. Gather herbs also in dry weather, when 
they are in full bloom. Roll your grass and gravel 
walks once a week at least, if you wish to have them 
neat. Clear ojff the old rubbish of spring crops that 
are done bearing, and prepare the ground to receive 
fresh crops. 

ESPALIER FRUIT TREES. 

Direitions at large were given last month for prun- 
ing and training espalier and standard apples, pears, 
plums, cherries, nectarines, peaches and apricots; 
if this work was then neglected, it must be done early 
this month, and thin the fruit that grows too close, 

FLYES. 

Directions*were given last month for dressing vines, 
which see. Continue to train and tie up shoots in 
the vineyard, and elsewhere, to the trellises — prune 
ofi* weak straggling shoots, and train the shoots that 
have fruit, so r.s to have an equal share of sun and air. 

BUDDING OR INOCULATING. 

The method is as follows : — Upon the steck which 
you want to bud, make an incision as" deep as the 
bark, in the form of a T (two inches long) raise the 
^ .rk of each side of the perpendicular incision, with 



64 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



a taper thin piece of hard wood, and thrust the bud 
gently between the bark and the body of the stock; 
prepare the bud thus — take a cutting- of this year's 
growth from a heahhy tree that bears well ; take off 
the leaves, make a cross cut an inch below the 
lowest bud or eye, nearly half way through ; place 
your knife half an inch above the bud, and slit the 
shoot down to the cross cut, taking out the piece ; 
separate the wood of the piece from the bark, so 
that the bud shall remain in the bark. If in sepa- 
rating, the bud quit the bark and leave a hole, it 
is useless, and you must proceed to the next bud 
in like manner — if there be no hole in the bud, 
insert it under the bark of the stock, as directed 
^ above, as smooth as possible, with the eye in the 
middle — should the bark in which the bud is, be 
too large for the incision, shorten the bark so as to 
slip in and lie quite close. The bud being inserted, 
bind a piece of mat or yarn round the stock and 
bark, to keep them close above and below the eye, 
but do not cover it. In about a month, if the bud 
has united to the stock, the former will appear plump, 
if not, it will appear decayed — the bandages may 
now be loosened, that the sap may flow freely. Next 
spring the buds will shoot forth, and the stocks must 
tlien be headed down. Apricots, cherries, peaches 
and nectarines may be budded this month, as the sap 
is now flowing freely, and the buds will part from the 
wood readily; later fruit trees must be budded later, 
taking as a criterion for the time, that the operation 
must be performed when the bark about the bud will 
readily part from the wood. 

Plum stocks raised from stones^ and about three 
vears old, are the best stocks to bud. peaches, plums, 
noclarines and apricots upon. Stocks raised from ker- 
nels of pears or quinces, and three or four years old. 
ure best to bud pears upon. In budding trees, ob- 
w-or.e. if liiey are for espahers or dwarfs, the bad 



JUNE. 6^ 

luust be placed low on the stock; if for standards, 
place the buds as high as five or six feet. Cloudy 
moist weather is the best for performing the operation 
of budding. 

GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 

Those trees that were budded last year will now 
have strong shoots, some of which may require to 
have stakos driven in the ground to tie them to for 
support— the long shoots of espaliers in:iy be pruned 
to six or eight inches long, to make them throv/ out 
lateral shoots. Some of your grafted trees may also 
require stakes to support the sho >ts. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries will now generally be ripe; such as 
are not, should be watered in dry weather frequently 
and kept clear from weeds. 

SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 

Young shoots of this year's growih, rciij be propa- 
gated this month by layers, thus — bend down the 
shoots to the earth ; secure them there Avith a hooked 
stick driven into the ground — cover the shoots four 
inches deep with earth, leaving three inches of the 
top uncovered, and water them frequently — they will 
be fit to plant next spring into a nursery. 

SEEDLING PLANTS. 

Keep your seedling beds well weeded and watered. 
Shade the tender kinds from the mid-day sun. 

ANNUAL FLOIVERS. 

Transplant annual flowers, from seed beds to the 
borders and beds Adhere they are to remain — in trans- 
planting take a bail of earth up with each planl, and 
place the ball where it ou^i.t to stand — water tnem 
afterwards — support the Icug stalked flowers with 
F 2 ' ' 



S'g FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



stakes. Hardj annuals that have been sown, may be 
thinned if they grow too close Candy tufts, virgin 
.<tock, mignionette, ten weeks stock, &c. may be sown 
this month to flower in the fall. 

CROWN IMPERIALS, TULIPS, 

The roots of these and other bulbous rooted flow^ 
ers, whose leaves are decayed, should be taken up 
and spread to dry in a shady place — the main roots 
also must be dried in like manner — the oifsets after 
another year's growth will flower. These roots, after 
drying, may be again planted, either in October or 
November. Take them up in dry weather. 

HYACIJVTHS. 

Roots of hyacinths that have not been taken up, 
must now be taken out of the ground, and laid in a 
f idge of dry earth, as directed in May. Those that 
v*^ere then laid in a ridge to dry, may be taken out, 
deaned from loose skins and earth, dried in the 
sun a few days, and laid up — take them up in dry 
weather. 

RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES, 

Take up their roots when the leaves wither — let 
the ground and weather be dry, that you may find all 
the small offsets, spread them to dry in the sun for four 
or five days ; clean them and lay them up. 

BULBS THAT FLOWER IN THE FALL. 

Take up narcissuses, colchicums, fall crocuses, &c. 
w^hose leaves are decayed — take the offsets off to dry, 
and plant the main roots immediately or next month ; 
they will flower in the fall. 

FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Propagate these flowers by cuttings as directed Mst 
month. 



JUNE. 



67 



CARjYATIOjVS .WD PINKS. 

Shade tliese flov/er?, and continue to support the 
stalks by tying them to stakes ; water them about 
three times a week. When the carnation ilower 
pods begin to burst, assist them by making two or 
three incisions in the skin of the pod with a sharp 
penknife, from the top half way down — the flowers 
will open more regular and beautiful for this opera- 
tion. Carnations and pinks may now be propagated 
by layers, thus. Take shoots of this year's growth 
that are fite or six inches long — strip the leaves off 
nearly to the top — clear away weeds about the mo- 9^ 
ther plant ; loosen the earth and make a bed of earth 
high enough to receive the shoots when bent down — 
secj.ire them in their places with a hooked stick, and 
cover them with four or nve inches more earth — 
before the shoots are bent down, a slit must be made; 
in each, extending about half way frt-iii the lowest 
joint towards the next, and two inches of the top of 
eacli shoot cut off: they will blow next summer. 

Carnations and pinks raised this year from seed, 
may be pricked out this month into nursery beds of 
good earth, well dug and raked even ; place the plants 
about six inches asunder and water them. 

PERE.XMAL A.YD BIEJVj^riAL FLOWERS. 

Those that were sown in pril or May, may be 
pricked out (into nursery be ' rryt six inches apart 
and watered— in the fall they maj be removed from 
the nursery to the borders where they are to flower 
next year. 

propagatiojY by piping. 

This month, pinks, carnations, kc. may be propa- 
gated by pipings, thus^ — cut the upper parts of young 
shoots that have two or three joints on each cutting^ — 
cut them close below a joint— pull gently, and the 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



lowest joint will come out of its socket ; cut off about 
an inch of the top of the shoot, and cut the bottom 
even, if not so. Plant them immediately in rich light 
earth, rake very well and fine, thrusting them (with* 
out making holes) about half length into the earth, 
an inch or two apart ; w^ater them gently and fre- 
quently, and shade them from the mid-day sun : or 
the shoots may be cut close below a joint, and planted 
in like nanner. 

THRIFT, BOX'EDGLmS AJVD HEDGES. 

In showery weather cut your edgings the height 
you wish them to be, and trim their sides v/ith shears ; 
clip your hedges also this month. 

. AURICULAS. 

Keep auriculas shaded, watered, and clear from 
weeds and decayed leaves. 

GREEN-HOUSE, 

You may now plant cuttings of China roses, gera- 
niums myrtles, &c. in a light rich shady border ; they 
will now strike freely; water must now be. distributed 
freely to the plants of this department. 



JULY. 

sow BROCOLI 

In a shaded place, on rich earth, rake in the seed 
and water it frequently in dry weather: the plants 
will be ready to plant out in August and September. 

This is a good time to plant brocoli into the ground 
where it is to come to perfection ; plant about two 
feet apart, water it as soon as planted, and if the wea- 
ther should be dry, water it frequently— but showery 



JULY. 



6"9 



weather should be taken for removing plants in ge> 
neral. 

ENDIVE. 

Sow green endive seed, also white and Batavigt, 
twice this month — water them frequently in dry wea- 
ther ; they should be sown in good ground ; tread ia 
the seed ^nd rake the beds. 

CABBAGES AND SAVOYS. 

Plant cabbages and savoys on open ground well dug ; 
plant them two or three feet asunder, according to the 
gize that the plants naturally grow to — water Hhem as 
soon as planted, and frequently afterwards if the wea- 
ther is dr}^ Do not plant any under the drip of trees 
or bushes. 

BUSH BEANS. 

Plant another crop of bush beans, either dwarfs or 
runners, but the dwarfs are preferable, because it is 
now rather late for runners : plant them immediately 
after you dig the ground, and water the drills before 
you put in the beans ; if they are steeped for four or 
six hours in pond water before planting, they will root 
the sooner. 

CARROTS. 

Keep carrots clear of weeds, and if you have not 
yet thinned them sufficiently, you may do it now as 
you use them. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Plant out cauliflowers that were sown in May, and 
afterwards pricked into nursery beds. Take wet wea- 
ther to remove those plants, if possible ; if not, you 
must water them very pieotifully ; plant them two, or 
two and a half feet asunder. Cauiiflov/ers that are 



70 



KITCFIEN GARDEN. 



heading must have the heads shaded by breaking the 
larg-e leaves over them. 

CELERY. 

This is a proper time to transplant celer3^ Dig 
(in good light earth) trenches a foot broad, eight 
inches deep, and about three or four feet apart — -lay 
the earth on each side of the trench equally — put a 
couple of inches of rotten :2ang in the bottom of the 
trenches— dig it six inches deep ; then place the 
plants upright in the middle of the trepche^, six 
inches asunder — take the best plants and trim off 
straggling leaves, and the end of the roots. Earth 
up celery that has been planted into trenches, break- 
ing the earth fine, and laying it to the plants equally 
en each side, being careful not to bury the hearts. 

TURjYIPS. 

For an early fall crop, sow turnips this month, in 
moist weather, on an open situation, well dug ; sow 
the seed evenly, not too thick ; rake it regularly into 
the earth. Two or three ounces will sow about six- 
teen poles of ground. 

GARLIC, SHALLOTS, ROCHAMBOLE, 

When the leaves of these plants begin to wither, 
pull up the roots and put them to dry in a shady place, 
for a week or ten days. 

ONIONS. 

Pull onions wheii the leaves wither — pull them 
in dry weather, and leave to each onion about four 
inches of stalk ; spread them on clean dry ground 
to harden, for ten or fifteen days, turning them about 
three times a week — from thence take them to a dry 
room and spread them on the floor, first cleaning 
them from earth and outer skins that are loose — 
leave the windows open in dry weather three or fouf 



JULY. 



-71 



^eeks — after that time keep out the air, and turn 
the onions occasionally, picking out any that are in- 
jured. 

MELONS, ^c. 

Plough or hoe your melons, pumpkins, squashes, 
gourds, &c. turning the earth to the stems of the plants 
so as to increase the hulk of the hills and hury the 
weeds ; when the fruit is pretty well grown, put stakes 
©r boards under it. 

CUCUMBERS. 

Plant cucumbers for pickling. The best kinds are 
any of the Jlong green cucumbers ; see the method 
ef planting in April — water those heretofore plan- 
ted, three or four times a week in dry weather, and 
keep them clear of weeds, also train the vines of 
young plants in regular order — others will be ready 
ibr pulling, 

CmDOONS. 

You may plant Cardoons this month — See directions 
in June, and earth up in dry weather those planted 
at that time — tie the leaves with a hay band, wind 
it round them several times, and earth them up 
half their height — the bands will keep the earth from 
rotting the plants. 

ARTICHOKES. 

When you cut oiT the mu'a heads of artichokes 
for use, cut the stems close to the ground, that they 
may not impoverish the roots, which have to throw 
out shoots against winter. 

LEEKS. 

Transplant leeks into good ground that has had rot- 
ten dung dug into it. Trim the roots of your plants, 



72 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



and take off the tops of the leaves. Place the plants 
about six inches apart, in rows a foot asunder. 

HERBS. 

Herbs for drying and distillation must be gathered 
when in bloom, and in dry weather — those wanted 
for dying must be spread or hung in a shady, airy 
place till dry. Herbs for medical purposes must be 
gathered and dry ed in like manner. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Weeding and watering must be sittended to this 
month, the former is best performed in moist wea- 
ther, the roots of weeds coming up easiest at that 
time ; watering should be performed before sun-rise 
and after sun-set. The stalks and rubish of old 
crops must be cleared away, and the ground prepared 
for other crops. Always transplant in showery wea- 
ther if possible. Gather seeds in dry weather as 
they ripen, and dry them for lying up. 

ESPALIER FRUIT TREES. 

If these trees have not yet been pruned and train- 
ed it must now be done, as directed in former months, 
but it wiU now be much more troublesome. If any 
shoots that are not wanted, have come out since last 
pruning, they should be cut off. 

FINES. 

The shoots of this year's growth that have been 
trained the preceding months, will now produce a 
small shoot from almost every eye, these must be rub- 
bed off as they appear— the removal of these shoots 
will cause the grapes to attain greater perfection. Nip 
off the extremities of fruit bearing shoots. 

FIGS. 

Early this month prune off all ill-placed shoots, 
and those whose growth are too luxuriant. 



JULY. 



LYOCULATE OR BUD TREF.'\ 

Plums, cherries, peaches, apricots an:l olnc r f; iii-: 
trees may be budded this mcntli, a;^ riirecicd in J; r;:, 
each kind on its proper stock, as there directed. — 
Cherries, plums and pears, that did not succeed fi oiA 
last year's buddir^g or grafting;, may now be budded 
again with the same kind of buds. Cioudy weather is 
the best for performing the operation, or in di y even- 
ings it may be done, as the heat of the siin is irjuii- 
ous to the cuttings. The buds of bearing trees who: c 
fruit is good, may be budded upon any strong sLool.'' 
(of this year's growth) of trees whose iVuit h not 
good. Loosen the bindings of trees budded last month; 
if any buds hav^e failed, insert others in anotlier pan 
of the stock. 

SENSITIVE PLANTS, 

Sensitive plants raised from seed (see annual iIovt- 
ers in March) may now be planted in pots, or bor- 
ders where ttiey are to remain — the earth sho';! 1 bo 
light and rich ; water them frequently after plantii.^::. 

CARNATIONS AND PINKS, 

Open the fiower pods when ihey begin to buret, a^ 
directed in June — protect the fiowers from rain :;nd 
liot sun, water them lig-htly three or fouv iLiie-^ 3 
week. Early this month carnations may be prc[)n2:ri- 
ted by layers as directed in June. Transplant tlio^e 
layed that month ; the latter end of this, they will have 
formed roots. Cut the iow^er naked part of the stalks, 
close to the slit part of the layers and plant the roots 
in rich earth, six inches apart, Vvatering them fre- 
quently. Observe, you must cut the tops of the 
leaves off the plants before you plaiit them. Finks 
may be propagated this m.onth by piping—See propa- 
gation by piping last month. 

G 



54 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



AURICULAS AND POLYANTHUSES. 

Clear these flowers from dead leaves and weeds, 
and water the flowers frequently. Transplant (into 
a place shaded from the noon sun, and well dug,) 
those raised from seecl sown in April, water them fre- 
queiitfj, and suffer no weeds to grow amongst them f 
plant them about four inches asunder. 

BULBOUS ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Bulbous roots whose leaves have daeayed, must 
be taken up in dry weather. Take the elfects from 
the main roots, and put the roots in a sunny place to 
i]ry for four or five dajs — the effects may be planted 
immediately, either in borders or nursery beds, and 
watered. 

WALL FLOWERS, STOCKS, 

Double wallflowers, double stocks, scarlet l3'Chnis* 
&c. may be propagated by cuttings (of this year'^ 
growth, from yaung stems — plant the cuttings as di- 
rected in May — see fibrous rooted flovv^ers. 

ROSES AND OTHER SHRUBS. 

Roses that produce suckers are generally propa- 
gated by planting the suckers from the roots. Those 
which produce none are propagated by budding or 
inoculating, and this is a proper tim.e to perform the 
operation — or they may be propagated by layers in 
the fill. For the mode of budding trees or shrubs, 
see Juiie. The fine roses maybe budded upon com- 
mon rose stocks raised by layers or suckers. Italian 
and other fi.ne jessamines may be propagated upon 
com.mon white jessamine stocks. Shrubs in general 
may be budded this month. 

GREEN-HOUSE. 

Cuttings of most sorts of plunts will yet strike, if 
Icept moist and shadowed from mid-day sun. Let them 



AUGUST. 

all hafe plenty vofvvatcr, and keop dear from docovQA 
leaves. 



AUGUST. 

BKOCOLL 

Thk month plant broccli from nursery beas ir:-.o 
an open situation, previonslj dig-ging- rotten dnn^- ii:l:> 
the 'Jrroimd. Place the plants in ro;v3 abont Iwo ?,:id 
a half feet apart, the plants about two feet apart 
water them after planting, and repeat it two or three 
times. 

SAVOYS. 

Plant out savoys about two feet asunder. They 
will be fit for use in winter and spring. 

RADISHES. 

You may sow radishes this month for a fall crop. 
The best kinds are black and white Spanish radishes. 
Sow them in open situations, and water them in dry 
weather — rake in the seed — some may be sown mixed 
with turnip seed. 

CELERY. 

Early this month celery maybe planted in trenche?, 
as directed in July ; water it immediately. 

Earth up v/hat has been planted, laying the earth 
equally to each side of the plants, and breaking it 
fine, being careful not to bury the hearts — this should 
be done in dry weather, once in a week or ten days. 

LETTUCPS. 

Sow lettuces twice this m-bnth for fall use. The 
feest kinds are brewn Dntch. grand adsiiral, green eo^s 



To KITCHEN GARDEN 

and Aleppo lettuces. Sow in a dry situation an# rak^ 
Hi the seed. 

EjYDIFE. 

Plant endive in an open situation, well dug ; trim off 
ihe ends of the roots and the tops of the leaves — 
^)lant them twelve inches asunder and v^ater them. 
Sow some green curled endive, and rake it in, for 
planting next month. 

ANGELICA, FENNELL, ^e. 

Sov/ angelica, fennel and carduus this month ; they 
ivill produce stronger plants than if sown in spring, 
«rid be fit to transplant next spring. Sow the seeds 

ori ground nerd J dug and rake them in 

CARDOONS, 

Cardoons that have been planted out, must (in dry 

'.V 'atlier this month) have their leaves tied close and 
ro^ular, so that they may be earthed up; ii? them 
wiih hny or straw bands, then break the earth welL 
aijrl ii equally on all sides of the plants* 

SPLYACH. 

To^varvlr the latter end of this month sow spinach. 
])hr the ^^rouiid well, tread in the seed, and rake the 
iyround alter ; prisldy seeded is the best kind to sow 
now, being hardy. When the plants have leaves about 
uii :nch broad, thin the plants to three or four inches 
apart and Vveed them well. 

HERBS. 

GatUcr hcvm to dry for distillation, when they are 
UL bloom and the weather dry ; preserve them as di- 
rnci mI Vxit month. 

GATHER SEEDS, 

As the different kinds of seeds ripen, gather them 
In drv weather, and lay them to dry and harden in 



AUGUST. 77 

ihe sun ; turn them often, and when perfectly dry, 
clear the seeds from chaff, ^c. after which lot them 
lie a few days in a dry place, before you put them 
up. Keep them in a dry room, in small drawers or 
l-aper bag^. Save such melon seeds only as sink in 
water. 

AROMATIC PLANTS, 

Cat the decayed stems of lavender, hy<:^op, savorj^. 
kc, also straggling shoots, to make them form neai 
beads of strong young shoots. Moist weather is the 
best to perform this w^ork. 

CHERVIL AXD SALAD. 

Latter end of this month sow lamb lettuce (often 
known b}^ the name of corn salad) and chervil, for 
fall use — sow them in drills or broad cast, and rake 
them in. The corn salad when it comes up, may be 
thinned to three or four inches apart. 

CUCLV^IBERS. 

In dry weather, water 3^our cucumber beds three 
or four times a week — gather the frait as it be- 
comes ready for use, and keep the plants clear froni 
weeds. 

TUBMPS. 

This is a proper time to sow turnips for a fall 
crop. Sow them in wet weather, on ground well 
dug — tread in the seed, and rake the ground after 
treading. 

In dry weather, hoe and thin the turnips sown 
last month, when the rough leaves are about an 
inch broad ; leave the plants about eight inches 
apart, or double that distance, if large field turnips. 
Some radish seed may be sown, mixed with turnip 
seed. 

G 2 



FRISTS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



PEAS, 

Sow peas for a fall crop early this montli. The best 
kinds are early Charlton, early May, and hotspurs — 
sow them in rows three or four feet apart, and cover 
the seed two inches deep. 

BUSH BEAJ\'S. 

Plant bush beans early this month ; the best kind 
are dwarfs, viz. black, white, speckled and liver- 
colored; plant them in rows two or three feet apart; 
the beans three inches apart and two inches deep. 
If the earth is dry, water the rows before planting. 

WATER-CRESSES, 

Sow seed in a watery, swampy place, and don't cut 
the cresses the first year, or they may be sown in 
ground only moist and raked in. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Continue to weed young crops in wet weather ; 
then the weeds will come up readily by the roots. 
Water the crops, particularly young ones, in dry wea- 
ther, twice or thrice a week, before sun-rise and after 
sun-set. Clear away the stalks and rubbish of old 
crops. Take showery weather for planting, and dry 
weather%r earthing up plants. Gather seeds as they 
ripen, and dry them for laying up. 

ESPALIER FRUIT TREES. 

Straggling shoots lately produced must be cut off — 
the trained branches and shoots kept well tied to the 
espaliers, and the earth kept clear of weeds about 
the trees. 



AUGUST. 



7^ 



FIGS. 

Figs will now begin to ripen — those that are too 
much shaded with leaves, should be exposed to the 
sun, by pulling the leaves. 

FIJVES. 

Keep your vineyard perfectly free from weeds and 
litter : w^eeds growing about the vines retard the 
growth, and injure the flavor of the grapes. Rub off 
all shoots that have lately appeared ; top the shoots 
that bear fruit, i. e. nip off the extreme part of each 
shoot: disentangle any bunches of grapes, and keep 
the shoots well secured to the trellises. Early fruit 
will now be nearly ripe. 

BUD TREES. 

Fruit trees may be budded any time this month-^ 
see the method in June. Shrubs budded last month 
should be examined, and their bandages loosened. 

STO.YES OF FRUIT. 

Save stones of such cherries, plums, peaches and 
apricots as you mean to sow for stocks to graft on, or 
other purposes. 

* AURICULAS, POLYANTHUSES, ^c. 

Sow seeds of these flowers Ihls month, in boxes 
filled with light rich earth; sow the seed thick, and 
cover it a quarter of an inch deep. Place the boxes 
w^bere they will have only the morning sun ; the 
plants from this seed will flower next summer. — 
Plants from seeds sown in spring', should be trans- 
planted into a sheltered border of good light earth, 
about three or four inches asunder — close the earth 
round the plants, water them moderately, and if 
the weather is dry, water them every second day, 
till rooted. Auriculas in pots must have new earthy 



8G) FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS 



or a light compost this month. Old plants should 
have an entire change of earth — have their roots 
cleared of decaj^ed parts, and the straggling fibres 
cut off. Younger plants may retain half the earth 
in the pot, viz. thai part which adheres to the root; 
then fill the pot with fresh earth, and pick off de- 
cayed leaves — place the pots in a shady place, and 
water the plants frequently. Ofisets that have grown 
from the old plants maybe taken off and planted ia 
pots or shady borders. 

ANNUAL FLOWERS. 

Annuals in pots will require to be watered every 
evening in hot weather ; pick oil dead leaves as they 
appear, and continue to support flower stems that re- 
quire it. 

PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS. 

Seedling wall-flowers, stocks, columbines, scabi- 
cases, sweet Vvilliams, &lc. that remain in seed beds, 
must be planted (in moist or showery weather) in 
nursery beds, and remain till October, when they 
may he removed into the situations where they_are 
to flower. Perennials and biennials in pots require 
w^atering occasionally, both those done flowering, and 
those blowing ; the former must have their stalks 
cut close to the earth as soon as the flowers are 
decayed ; the earth in the pots refreshed with new 
earth, and the pots placed in a shady place during 
summer. 

CARNATIONS AND SWEET WILLIAMS. 

Carnations and sweet Williams may this month be 
propagated by layers, as directed in June. Those 
layed in July, should now be cut from the old plants, 
and planted in a shady situation ; water then) often till 
well rooted.. 



SEPTEMBER, 



BULBOUS ROOTS. 

The flowers of bulbous roots will be decayed at 
this time ; take up the roots, if not done before ; se- 
parate, the offsets, and plant them immediately — the 
roots may be dried and laid up till fall ; plant the off- 
sets (four or five inches apart) in nursery beds, t# 
remain a year or two. 

GATHER SEEDS. 

Flower seeds that are ripe must now be gathered 
and dried in an airy, shady place ; when dry and 
hard, rub them out of the chaff, and put them up 
for use. 

BULBS THAT FLOWER IJV THE FALL. 

Fall narcissus, amaryllis, crocus, colchicums, &:c^ 
may be planted in light earth this month ; they wiH 
blow in the fall, 

GREEK-HOUSE. 

This is a proper time for potting your plants raised 
from cuttings last June, &c. They must be corered 
from the sun for ten or twelve days, kept moderately 
moist, except the esculent tribe ; give water very 
freely in every other kind this month. 



SEPTEMBER, 

RADISHES. 

Sow radishes for a supply in the fall. The best 
kinds are the black and white Spanish, and turnip- 
rooted radishes : sow them broad cast, and rake 
them in. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



LETTUCES. 

Lettuces sown in August may now be pianteS 
out, in wet weather, or else water them after re- 
moval. Plant them about ten inches asunder, in dry 
light earth. Sow lettuces of iiiferent sorts, tt) plant 
under frames or other covers, to stand through the 
winter for spring planting. Plant some 'lettuces ffoE 
winter's supply, in dry lich earth, in a sunny situa- 
tion ; make the beds a proper siz:2 to be covered 
with your frames^ or hoops and mats, later in the 
year. 

CAULIFLOWEBS. 

Sow cauliflowers on rich light earth, in a warm 
situation ; rake in the seed. These will be fit to 
plant under frames or other covers, the latter part of 
October. 

BROCOLL 

Transplant what brocoli remains in your beds.**— 
tlant in rich ground, in a warm situation, about two 
feet asunder ; earth up what was previously planted, 
and hoe up the weeds. 

MAKE MUSHROOM BEDS. 

Mark a piece of ground in a dry, sheltered situa- 
tion, four or five feet wide, any length you require; 
dig it about six inches deep, laying the earth oa each 
side of the place so marked : take dung which has 
been well mixed, and lain about a fortnight in a 
heap (preparatory to making the bed) lay it on the 
place so marted, shaking and mixing it as you pro- 
ceed, beating it down with the fork, ayer by layer, 
and narrowing the bed as it advances in height, till 
you have it four feet high, and terminating in an 
edge, so that the whole bed will have the form of 
'the roof of a, house. For several days the bed will 



SEPTEMBER. 



t3 



be hot ; but in two or three weeks it will become 
cool enough to put in the spawn. To ascertain this, 
thrust two or three sticks into different parts of the 
bed, and when feeling the sticks, 3^ou ascertain that 
the heat is below a temperate heat, you may yen* 
ture to put in the spawrf. It must be planted in rows 
along the side of the bed ; the first row about six 
inches from the bottom, the secc«d six inches higher, 
and so on till the whole is planted; the pieces of 
spawn about six inches from each other, and about 
as much in each place as will fill a tobacco pipe. — 
When the bed is all planted, beat the sides gently 
with a spade ; cover the bed an inch and a half thick., 
with rich dry earth, and make this smooth with a 
spade, as you did the dung before ; cover the bed 
with long litter or strav/ to keep off the wet effectu- 
ally ; and as soon as you find there is no darger of 
the bed becoming too hot in ccnseqvience of the co- 
vering, increase the covering to the tbickness of a 
foot. The covering must be examined frequently 
during winter, and if damaged, must be repaired, as 
wet will spoil the bed. After the bed has been co- 
vered three or four weeks, if it become too cool, and 
the mushrooms come not freely, take oiF the cover- 
ing (in dry weather) lay w^arm fresh dimg over the 
bed, about six inches deep, and then replace the 
covering. In about six weeks the bed will produce 
plentifully, and continue to do so several months. — 
If rain falls after the bed is made, and before it is 
spaw^ned, it must be sheltered well with litter or 
«traw. 

Spa^vn is generally to be found in old hot beds?;, 
decayed dunghills, and in pasture fields where m^ush- 
rooms have grown ; it is a white fibrous substance^ 
spreading in lumps of rotten dung, and smells exactly 
like a mushroom. In gathering the spawn, take up 
with it the dung it is in, and lay them in a dry place, 
corering them with litter till ycu have enough ga- 



KITCHEN GARDEN 



thered ; if you gather in moist weather, let the 
spawn lie a few days in a dry place before you cover 
it. It sometimes happens that mushroom beds will 
not begin to produce for three or four months, and 
then will produce plentifully. When you pull an old 
bed to pieces, save the spawn that is fresh to plant 
BOW beds. 

CABBAGES. 

Sow early York, early Sugar Loaf, and early Bat- 
tersea cabbage, for an early crop next year ; they 
will be fit to plant out under cover at the latter end 
of this month. Sow them in light, dry soil, and rake 
them in. 

COLEWORTS. 

Early this month, plant cole worts that were sowr 
in July, if any remain in seed beds ; plaut them two 
feet apart and in light ground, in a warm situation, t© 
stand the winter. 

CELERY, 

Earth up celery that has been planted out. Take 
dry weather for this work, and earth the plants as 
high as the hearts. 

CARDOOjYS. 

Tie up the leaves of cardoons with hay bands, and 
lay earth round the stems, breaking the earth well, 
gently beating it close to the stems, and smooth on 
the outside, that the rain may run off. 

ENDIVE, 

Plant endive in a dr}^ warm sit nation, a foot or 
fourteerl inches apart. Tie up what has heed planted 
(if near its full growth) and earth up the plants as 
directed for cardoons. 



SEPTEMBER. 



SPINACH. 

Sow spinach for winter and spring use, in a rich, 
warm soil and sunny situation. Sow it broad cast, 
and rake it in. 

WATER'CRESSES. 

Sow the seed in a shallow water, either stagnant, or 
a very gentle stream ; don't cut the cresses the first 
year.' 

ONIONS. 

You may now sow onions for next spring crop ; 
^ow them in drills a foot asunder, dropping the seed 
pretty thick along the drills, and covering it an inch 
deep. 

CARROTS. 

You may now sow carrots for a spring crop ; sov<r 
them in beds or drills twelve or eighteen inches apart. 
Tread in the seed and rake it well, covering them an 
inch deep; when they come up, draw them to be 
four inches apart, and weed them. 

TURNIPS. 

Hoe your crops of turnips if not done last month, 
as then directed. 

CHERVIL AND CORN SALAD. 

Sow chervil and corn salad for winter's use, sow 
it early this month, in drills ; cover it two inches 
deep ; when the salad comes up, thin it to two or 
three inches apart. 

SMALL SALADING. 

Sow small salading this month (as rape, radish, 
cresses and mustard) in rich, light earth, in a warm 

H 



tG ICITCHEKT GARDEN. 

situation, in drills or broad casjt ; sow the seed a quar- 
ter of an inch d@ep. 

GENEBAL REMARKS, 

Gather seeds as they ripen, and spread them to 
dry in a sunny place; when dry, clear them from 
chaff— then <^ry them two or three days more, lay 
ihsm up in drawers or paper bags, which keep in a 
warm room. 

ESPALIER FRUIT TREES, 

Examine espalier trees, and keep them well tied up 
in the order you have trained them. 

vmES. 

Early this month, prune off any shoots that have 
lately grown ; clear such bunches of grapes as may 
be entangled with others, and let all hang exposed to 
the sun. 

Birds and insects will now attack your best fruits ; 
to catch the latter, hang vials of molasses (mixed 
with water) on the trees. Many of the insects will 
drown themselves. To keep off the former, cover 
the fruit with nets ; and cover the bunches of fine 
giapes with muslin or crape. 

GATHER FRUITS. 

Gather ripe fruits in fine weather. When quite 
ripe, they readily quit the wood. In gathering fruit 
be careful not to pull the stems out of it ; gather it 
without brusing. Apples should be laid in a heap, 
in a dry place, and covered with straw about ten 
days, to sweat ; then examine them, pick out those 
that are decayed and l3ruised, and spread the others 
on a dry floor, with the eyes down— there they 
may remain till there is an appearance of frost, when 
they must be packed in barrels,and placed where the 
frost cannot affect them. 



SEPTEMBER. 



87 



STlUWBERPdES, 

This is a good time to plant strawberries. Dung, 
dig, and rake, some good ground — lay it off in beds 
about four feet wide, separated by alleys about twenty 
inches wide. From beds that bear well, take strong, 
joung runner plants of this year's growth, with good 
roots ; trim the roots, and plant three or four rows 
on each bed, lengthways, placing the plants about six- 
teen inches apart in the rows — close the earth about 
each plant, and water them lightly, immediately. A 
loamy soil answers best for strawberries, and moist 
weather is the best for planting. Wild strawberries 
may be planted in shady places, but the others thrive 
best in open situations. The alpine everlasting profic 
is a very productive strawberry. Pine apples. Chili 
scarlet, and hautboy, are also very good strawberries; 
the first kind will continue bearing till Christmas, if 
protected by glasses. 

CARNATIOJVS. 

Those that were layed last month must be planted 
this, in pots, or nursery beds, in w^arm situations; 
layers that have been planted must be watered in dry 
weather, and kept free from weeds. 

AURICULAS. 

Those that were fresh earthed last month, must 
be watered occasionally, and if any that required the 
earth to be refreshed, were neglected last month, 
they may now be earthed. 

PERENMALS AND BIEXMALS, 

Perennials and biennials that were sown in springs 
or early in summer, may be planted this month, as co- 
lumbines pinks, wallflowers, stock July flowers, &c. 
^uch as have been pricked into nursery beds, may 
fee transplanted, with a ball of «arth takea up r©^* 



88 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



tneir roots : all those require watering after being 
planted, and should be planted in light, rich earth, 
m a warm situation. 

BULBOUS FLOWERS. 

Sow in beds or boxes of rich, light earth, seeds of 
tulips, hyacinths, crown imperials, fritiilarias, and 
other bulbous rooted flowers- — sow the seed, sepa- 
ratsij, pretty thick, and cover them lightly with rich; 
free earth, about half an inch deep. 

BOX. 

This is a good time to plant box edgings. Take 

short, bushy box, slip and part it, cut the long roots 
off, and trim the tops even — cut a trench about six 
inches deep along the border where you intend to 
plant, one side of the trench perpendicular — ^place 
the plants, along this so close as to form a continued 
edging, of equal height, about three inches above 
the ground — As you plant, draw earth to the roots to 
keep the plants in their places, and when done, fill 
the trench and tread down the earth. 

FIBROUS-ROOTED PLAjYTS. 

Campanulas, rose-campions, scarlet lychnis, catch- 
fly, kc. &c. should now be slipped and planted out. 
Take up large tuft, part them, plants the best slips 
where they are to remain, and the weakest in a nur- 
sery bed. 

Polyanthuses, daisies, thrift, camomile, London 
pride, gentianella, double rocket, batchelor's buttons, 
double ragged Robin, and other fibrous-rooted tiow^ers 
that are done flowering, maybe parted and planted in 
like manner. All require watering after being planted. 

KNOB-ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Flag-iris, monks-hood, fraxinella, p»ionies and other 
kaob-rooted flowers may now be taken up, parted and 
J >] an ted. 



FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Late this month, evergreens and flowering shrubs 
tnay be transplanted from nurserj' beds and watered ; 
particularly lauristinus, phillyre s, Portugal laurek, 
arbutuses, &c. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 

Gooseberries, currants, honey-suckles, Portugal lau- 
rels and other shrubs, may be propagated late this 
month by cuttings. Take cuttings from shoots? of this 
year's growth — the cuttings about ten inches long — 
plant them about a foot apart, in a shady place, and 
water them — put the cuttings about one-third of their 
length in the ground. 

FRUIT STONES. 

Cherry and plum stones may be sown now, or ii> 
October, to raise stocks for grafting or budding. Sow 
them in beds or drills, separately, about two inches 
ieep and three inches apart. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Destroy weeds among your flowers, seedlings, nui!^- 
sery beds, young planted trees, shrubs, &c. Cut the 
sterns of dscayed flowers ; prime away irregular shoots 
•f shrubs and flowering plants — support such as re- 
quire it — roll gravel walks — mow and roll grass walks ; 
clip edges and edgings— destroy insects that infest 
your line fruits — it maybe done with sweetened wa^er 
hiH g in viah upon the trees — protect yoar fine fi 
wi J. nets from birds, and prepare ground for placiting 
Bext month. 

GREEN'HOUSE. 

All kinds of cuttings that ha^ e struck r^ot, must 
fee potted this month j water now with moderation* 

F 2 



OCTOBER. 

LETTUCES. 

The beginning of this month is a good time to plant 
out lettuces, on warm sheltered situations. The best 
kind for this season is the hardy green cabbage let- 
tuce. Plant in rows six or eight inches apart, and 
the same distance in the row. As the weather sets ia 
severe, cover lightly with salt hay, or which is better^ 
cedar limbs or tops of young bushes. To have salad 
in winter and early in spring, you must plant some in 
beds of rich earth, to be eifectually protected from frost 
by frames and glass sashes, which, in all severe wea- 
ther, must be well covered with mats or straw, to 
prevent the frost from penetrating through the glass ; 
and the frame must be well lined all around with horse 
dung. In all moderate weather, the glasses must be 
uncovered every day, and on mild days the glasses 
shoved off, and moderate waterings given once a week 
or fortnight. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Late in this month plant cauliflowers in beds of 
rich light earth, sloping to the sun, and »of such size 
as you can cover with frames, or hoops and mats. 

CABBAGES. 

Plants remaining in seed beds may be planted three 
or four inches apart, in beds where they caabe cover- 
ed during winter. 

HORSE-RADISH. 

Plant horse-radish this month, in dry ground — see 
direction ^ hi « r.:aryfor planting, and take what has 
had two yearns growth. 



SI 



Hoe earth round the st Mns of hrocoli planted in 
former raoiiths, and loosen the earth between die 
plants. The Italian kind has flowers like caulillowers, 
and stems that eat like asparagus. 

SPIjYACH. 

Keep spinach clear from weeds, and thin the plants 
that are too close, drawing the worst of them, leaving 
those that stand, about tive inches apart. 

AROMATIC PLANTS. 

Mint, balsam, tansey, thyme, marjoram, hyssop, sa- 
vory, camomile, burnet, sorrel, Lc, must be cleared 
from weeds, and the flower stems that are decayed, 
cut close to the heads, or to the ground, according 
to the nature of the plants. If the plants are old, 
^ig some rotten dung between them, to refresh the 
earth. 

MINT. 

Make a hot bed about two feet high ; cover it 
with about four inches of earth ; lay roots of mint 
®n the earth — cover them an inch deep vvith more 
earth, and put on a frame — this is to supply mint Ib 
winter. 

PLANT HERBS. 

Shps of mint, balm, tansey, marjoram, sorrel, bur- 
Bet, camomile, hyssop, sage, thyme, savory, Lc, with 
good roots, may be planted this month, but spring is 
the best time. 

ENDIVE. 

In dry weather tie up endive, and earth it as directed 
iQ former months. 



ASPAIIJIQUS. 

Cut down the stalks of asparagus close to tke 
gronnd. Hoe up the weeds and rake the mi into the 
alleys ; bury them there a spade deep— throw earth 
out of the alleys evenly over the beds, and leave 
the surface of the beds and alleys smooth. If the 
beds are old, spread dnng- from an old hot bed over 
them, before yon dig the alleys. Seedling beds, after 
being cleare4 of weeds, must be covered an inch or 
two with dry, rotten dung, to preserve them from 
frost. Winter asparagus must have hotbeds prepared 
and planted for the first crop, and for succeeding 
crops, make a hot bed every month till March (see 
^irectious in January.) 

CELERY. 

As celery advances in height, continue to earth ll 
«p in dry weather, without burying the hearts or 
Ibreaking the leaves. 

CARDOOJSrS. 

As cardoons advance in height, earth up the plants. 
The leaves must be previously tied up close and 
jfegular. 

SMALL SALADS. 

Sow small salad herbs (in a bed of light, ricB 
earth, sloping to the sun) pretty thick, cover theim 
a quarter of an inch deep — make the beds of such 
a size as to be covered with your frames, which 
m jst be left on at night and in bad weather. When 
frames cannot he had, cover with hoop arches and 
mats or litter. 

CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. 

Dig up those roots and put them in sand to keep 
fhv use. 



OCTOBER. 



93 



POTATOES. 

Such as are at their fall growth must be taken up, 
and when dry, cleared from earth, put into a warm 
cellar and covered with straw, 

ELECAMPA^^^E. 

Sow the seed of this medicinal plant as soon as ripe. 
Sow the seed ten inches apart, or plant offsets having 
buds at the top. 

GEXERAL REMARKS. 

Dung and dig the ground that has not a crop on it,, 
burying the dung ; or the ground may be thrown up 
in ridges, that the weather may mellow it for spring 
use. Prepare earth for early crops of next year, thus : 
mix equal quantities of earth, loam and dung ; blend 
them well, and leave the heap exposed to the sun and 
air. This mixture will be w^anted next spring to lay 
on hot beds. 

LIQUORICE. 

Cut the dead stems off liquorice plants, and dig the 
j^round between the rows of plants. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Take up the roots as you do potatoes, and sare 
them in like manner from frost. 

PRUYE APPLES, PEARS, PLUMS AND CHER^ 
RIES. 

In pruning these trees, observe that the same wood 
continues to bear several years ; therefore cut only 
such as are decayed, injured, or too old for bearing*"; 
where such are cut out, train this year's shoots in 
the places of what are cut, and let the new wood 
run its full length, because shortening the shoots 
Makes them throw out wood, instead of fruit bearing 



94 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS 



spurs — the irregular and superfluous shoote of thb 
year's growth must also be cut off, close to the place 
where they grow— in trimming the shoots, do not 
let them cross each other, but thin the branches t© 
form handsome heads ; train them parallel, about 
six inches apart for espaliers. As soon as each tree 
is pruned, tie it well to the treUises, if it be a» 
espalier. 

PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS. 

These trees may be pruned this month — first un- 
tie them from the trellises, if espaliers — cut out oli 
wood wherever you can supply its place with shoots 
©f this year's growth, because it is on the latter the 
fruit will chiefly grow next summer — the old wood 
will produce no fruit, except on shoots that may 
have grown on it this year: those branches that 
have produced handsome, well placed shoots may 
remain, particularly where you cannot replace them 
with good shoots of this year's growth. If young 
shoots grow too thick on standard trees, cut out the 
worst, so as to form handsome heads — ail the re- 
tained shoots of espaliers must be shortened— each 
shoot should be shortened about one third of its 
ength, strong shoots not quite so much, weak ones 
a little more, being careful not to cut below all the 
blossom buds, unless you wish wood to be produced ; 
in which case you may cut below the seed buds. 
Leave the shoots that you mean to train, three to 
five inches asunder. If any shoots you leave to 
bear, have side shoots, cut them off. 

In shortening shoots that are to be trained, cut 
them at a leaf bud or wood bud, they are long and 
flat, whereas fruit buds are round and swelling, or 
cut them where two blossom buds arise at the- 
,srame ere, having a wood bud between them> 



OCTOBER. 



95 



FATHER WIMER APPLES AND PEARS, 

When these fruits have tb^ir full growth they 
will quit the branches ref^dily — they must be gath- 
ered in dry weather, abou.t noon, or thence till 
evening — be careful not to bruse the fiuit in gath* 
«ring — lay them in heaps in a dry place, each kind 
separate, and there let them remain about ten day« 
or a forti-tight to sweat — afterwards wipe them se- 
parately with a dry cloth, and lay them up in 
casks or cheats, Vv^th clean dry straw round the 
packages. Cover the fruit with ^^traw, and exclude 
ihe air as much as possible fromi the fruit. 

TRAJVSPLAJVT FRUIT TREES- 

This month you may transplant standard and es- 
palier fruit trees that have shed their leaves. T# 
make a plantation of espaliers, trench the ground 
two spades deep, working in rotten dung if the 
|^r*)und be poor, and if light and sandy, mix some 
■urface earth also, particularly about the spots where 
the tress are to be planted. The distances for 
each kind is stated in February. 

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES. 

Plant these shrubs from nursery beds, about six 
feet apart, the rows eight feet apart, unless you 
want them round beds and borders ; in which 
case plant them about six feet apart ; prune old 
trees, and dig about their roois — prune the bran- 
ches to regular distances, keeping tbe hearts of 
the trees open and clear of wood, that the sun may 
be admitted — cut off suckers from the roots, and 
branches from the lower parts of the stems. A 
number of shoots produced this summer must be 
cut ofi, and supply their places with young shoots; 
any principal branches that are decayed shouW 



m FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



be siippiied with strong young shoots growing lower 
on tlie stem. Some branches will have produced 
several young shoots this year, those must be 
cut Oif, unless wanting to supply vacancies, and 
except the one next the end of the branch which 
must be left for a leader, and the branch shor- 
tened to that shoot, if the branch wants shortening; 
the young shoots you leave remaining, must be 
shortened about one third, or if very vigorous, 
one fourth. Propagate those shrubs this month by 
cuttings— the young shoots you cut off will answer 
to plant, if about ten to eighteen inches long — 
plant them in shady borders, about one third of 
their length in the ground, and distant six inches 
from each other, in rows fifteen inches apart; or 
propagate by suckers from the roots — ^but spring 
is the best time to plant cuttings. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Continue to plant strawberries this month as di- 
rected last, and dress your strawb err}^ beds in dry 
weather, thus : — Clear away all the strings or run- 
ners close by the heads of the plants, and take ail 
litter and rubbish away — loosen the earth between 
the plants without disturbing them ; dig the allej^s 
and spread some of the earth round each plant, 
close to it, and spread some dung on the surface ; 
this will strengthen the plants. 

RASPBERRIES. 

Make new plantations of raspberries, thus — take 
young suckers, of this Summer's growth, and plant 
them in good, well dunged ground — the auckers 
should have good roots, and the best are those which 
have two or more buds formed on the root — leave 
one strong shoot on each root — -trim tlie root, short- 
en the shoot, and. place the plants three or four 
feet apart, in rows five or six feet asunder. Prune 



OCTOBER, 



oid plantations, cut away close to the ground all the 
old wood that has produced fruit, and leave in place 
thereof the hest shoots of last summer's growih, 
five or six on each root, shortening those shoots 
about one fourth of their length — dig the ground 
between the roots, and take up the roots that are 
straggling betwixt the rows. 

BARBERRIES, FILBERTS AND MULBERRIES. 

Prepare this month by layers, thus — lay yo^ng 
^oots aboa^ six inches deep in the earth, the :o^s 
out, next fall they will be rooted and fit to [ Liiit'. 
The shoots must not be parted from the parents 
till next fall. 

FIGS AND VINES. 

Propagate fig trees and vines by layers as directed 
above. 

FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Propagate by lavers as directed above for bar- 
berries, (J'C. or by cuttings (but spring is the best 
time to plant cuttings) of young shoots, placing them 
hhout one third their length in the earth — r ext fall 
they will be rooted and fit to plant out. Layers and 
Cutiings, laid or planted last Fall, may now be pJaii^ed 
o-' iDiO nursery beds and watered. Prune shrubs 
that have grown irregular, 

YEW, HOLLY, THORNBERRIES, 

Sow berries of all kinds this month, an inch or 
two deep in the earth—they may not perha] f< come 
up till this time two years — If you burriec! nny 
last rail, take them up and fov^t them— --yov may 
now bury those kinds of berries in a hole about 
eighteen inches deep, d^i^i in very dry ground cover 
them about six inches below the surface, and throw thf 
t 



98 FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND SHRUBS. 



rest of the earth over them in form of a ridge, to 
turn oflf the rain ; next fall take up the berries, sow 
them as above directed, and they will appear the 
spring after. 

' SOW STOjYES. 

On beds of good earth about four feet wide, 
>^ow stones of peaches, plums and cherries, in rows 
about twelve inches apart, each kind in separate 
beds — cover them three inches deep with earth and 
throw short dung over the earth about an inch deep, 
put the stones about three inches apart in the rows. 
Preserve some stones in dry sand, that if the stones 
now sown perish, you may have some to sow ia 
^spring. 

CAHYATIOJVS. 

Those flowers must be defended from bad weath-^ 
er — those in pots may be renioved to a shelter; 
those in open ground may have hoop arches aii4 
Baats erected over them. 

AURICULAS. 

Shelter those flowers from weather as direct- 
edi for carnations— give them a sunny situation — 
«lear them of dead leaves, and loosen the top of the 
earth in the pots. 

FIBROUS ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Transplant fibrous rooted, perennial and biennial 
iBowers, into pots or borders ; such as rose campions, 
doable rocketts, sweet WilHams, scarlet lychnis* 
wall-flowers, July flowers, campanulas, catchfly., &c. 
The double kinds deserve pots, and great attentiom 
in bad weather ; slip and plant London pride, poly- 
anthusses, double d^^isies, gentianella, bipaticas and 
fibrous flowers in general. Plant out your 



OCTOBER. 



as. 



seedlings, and layer from yjinks and carnations — plant 
everlasting sunflowers, French honeysuckles, holy- 
hock, (k,c. Fibrous rooted flowers that are several 
jears' old may have their roots parted and planied, 
sntjail parts of roots into nursery beds, and larger 
parts where they are to stand. 

BULBOUS FLOWERS. 

Plant bulbous and tuberous roots of all kinds that 
were taken up in former months, when their leavea 
(ilecaj^ed — plant in good ground, well dug and broken, 
the fine kinds of roots, in situations that can be 
readily sheltered. Bulbous rooted flowers may be'' 
planted in rows, beds, patches, or to assume thie 
^rm of diamonds, ovals, &c. as fancy dictates. 

KmB ROOTED FLOWERS. 

Flowers of this description that have stood some 
years, may be taken i-^, parted and planted, the 
small partings in nursery beds, the larger where 
they are to stand. 

ROSES, HOJVEYSUCKLES AND EVERGREENS. 

With a sharp knife prune off luxuriant and ramb- 
ling shoots of this year's growth, so that they shall 
not interfere with each other — cut ofl' those that 
have sprung too low on the stem, and shorten shoots 
that are too long — suckers, rising from the roots 
must also be pruned ofl*. After pruning, dig the 
ground between th^ plants. Plant Portugal, laurels, 
laurislinuses, arbutus, phiil3'^reas, magnolias, hollies, 
bays, cistuces, &c. &c. five to ten feet apart accor- 
ding to the size the respective shrubs naturally 
attain. Propagate roses and shrubs in general, 
by layers; bend down the young shoots and bury 
them five or six inches out — secure them from 
rising, by hooked wooden pegs driven in the ground — 
thoae laid last fall may now be taken up and planteti. 



m FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND SHRUBS. 



Boses and other shrubs ma}^ be propagated thfe 
month by suckers from the roots ; take up the suck- 
ers with their roots, and plant them about a foot apart 
fa nursery beds. 

SEEDUNG FLOWERS. 

Seedling in pots or boxes must be removed into 
warm situations, and the seedling bulbs in open 
, ground must be weeded and covered with rich, light 
earth, about an inch thick, 

EDGIJVGS, 

Plant box, thrift, &c. for edgings. Slip short 
^ushy plants aud part large roots; place the plants 
or slips close to each other in a small trench about 
nine inches deep, on one side perpendicular, and 
feave the tops of the plants about two inches above 
ground, then draw the earth into the trench. 

STOCKS TO BUD AND GRAFT OK, 

Plant out stocks of all kinds from yournursery 
feeds— plant in rows two or three feet apart — the 
stocks about fifteen inches asunder. Suckers and 
layers of fruit trees that were planted and laid last 
fall, may now be transplanted, for stocks to graft 
or bud upon. 

GREEK-HOUSE, 

' The beginning of this month, is time to remove 
the plants into the Green-House. A dry but cloudy 
day is the best for this business, the tallest plants 
should be placed in the back shelves of the stage ; 
and so diminish in regular order till the smallest oc- 
cupies the lowest and front shelve, a moderate wa- 
tering must be given as soon as they are placed ia 
Ihe house and particular care will be necessary.— 
Clear off all decayed leaves and admit as much air 
t?$4>osslblc all mild weather. 



OCTOBER. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

This month is a proper time for planting and lay- 
ing trees and shrubs in general, also for transplant- 
ing from nursery and seedling beds — for sowing- 
fruit stones — for propagating by suckers — for sow- 
ing seeds of hardy shrubs — for pruning^ — for sowing- 
berries to raise plants for hedges — for planting and 
clipping hedges and edgings. Mow grass walks — 
Toll gravel walks, and trim evergreens, — In plan- 
ting trees and shrubs, always open a space wide 
and deep enough to admit the roots readily loos- 
ening the bottom of the hole — prune off long strag- 
gling and bruised roots, and trim the heads of the 
plants, then place them upright, and in filling up 
the. hole shake the tree or plant gently, that the 
earth may cl6se well to the roots — afterwards tread 
down the earth and water it. Delicate shrubs should 
be taken up with a ball of earth round the roota^ 
and so planted and watered. Such as require si^ 
port must be tied to a stake. 



NOVEMBER- 

ENDIVE. 

Take full growing plants, in dry weather, and tie 
Ihe leaves together, when quite dry, with a twig • 
in a warm, dry situation, exposed to the sug, ihrow 
up earth into a ridge two feet high and three feet- 
broad, the sides steep, that the rain may run off — 
put che plants into the sunny side of the ridg , nearly 
up to the top of the leaves, and the plants wiLi blanch 
withoat rolling. In frosty weather cover the ridges 
With litter. 



CELERY. 

Earth up celery (for blanching) that is almost at 
to its full growth, break the earth well and lay it 
on each side of the plants within^six inches of the 
tt)p of the leaves, taking care the earth does not 
get into the hearts, else they will rot. 

LETTUCES. 

Lettuces in frames may be uncovered every fin€ 
^ay and night — in very wet weather keep the frames 
on, but give the plants air, and cover the frames 
with straw when the nights are frosty. Take the 
same care of those under hoop or other covers. 

SMALL SALADS. 

Sow small salading under frames *n rich, light 
earth : sow it a quarter of an inch deep. Give air 
freely to any that has been sown, as directed sitjove 
^r lettuce. 

CARDOOjXS. 

In dry, mild weather earth up cardooas as they 
advance in height, the leaves being previously tied 
up carefully with a bandage of hay; lay the earth 
within three or four inches of the top. Cover the 
k>p3 with litter in frosty weather. 

DRESS ASPARAGUS BEDS. 

Dress asparagus beds as directed last month, 18 
not done, and make a bed for forcing. See Jau- 
tiary. 

SPINACH. 

Where spinach stands too close, tfiin it for use, 
'anf! the larger outside leaves of what yon leave 
standing may be cut for use. Keep it clear from weed*; 



CAULIFLGV/ERS. 

Ylants under frames must have air daily ; in fine 
weather take the frames off every mor^^iin^, clear 
away dead leaves and weeds, and put on the frames 
at night ; those in open ground that have not flow- 
ered must be put in a cellar to blow, covering the 
roots with earth. 

ARTICHOKES. 
Cut the leaves close to the ground, leaving only 
the young shoots that rise from the heat of the 
plant and the small central leaves ; proceed to heap 
up the plants thus : Dig a trench betv*^een each row 
of plants, lay the earth up on each side of the trench 
to the height of six inches, leaving only the central 
leaves, or hearts of the plants uncovered, so that 
the earth thrown out of the trenches will form rid- 
ges, between which will be the plants. When the 
frost sets in, cover the trenches and ridges with, 
long litter or straw, (about the depth of six inches,]) 
lo preserve the roots and and crowns of the plants. 

POTATOES. 

Potatoes that remain in ground must be takeia 
up early this month with a plough, hoe or spade^ 
according to the mode of planting which was pur- 
sued. Take them up in mild, dry weather, that the 
earth may fall off them ; put them in a dry place anfi 
cover them with dry straw to keep frost from them, 
or bury them in a deep hole lined with straw : cov- 
er the potatoes with straw and throw the earth over 
them in the form of a roof Note — The hole shonU 
he in high, dry ground, where the rain does not lodge^ 

PARSJVIPS, BEETS AND CARROTS. 

In dry, mild weather, take up carrots, parsnips^ 
and beets; cut off the tops, clear the roots of earth/ 



and laj them close, en a bed of d^y sand three iache5 
thick, with the crowns ort, cover the roots with a 
layer of sand about two inches deep, then a layer of 
roots, and so on till they are laid up ; cever the heap 
with straw. 

SALSAFY, TURJVIPS, HORSE-RADISH, 
These and roots of a similar kind, may be laid up 
as directed above for beets and carrots. 

omojvs. 

That hare been housed must have decayed one* 
picked out. Those that are in the ground must be 
kept clear of weeds. 

CABBAGES. 

Take up cabbages and lay them on ridges of dry 
«arth, covering the roots and stems, and making ^ 
shelter to preserve them from frost and rain. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Make hot beds for forcing asparagus, and plant 
them to succeed those made last month, (see direc- 
ilions in January.) 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Throw up vacant ground into ridges to be mel* 
loTTed by frost; previously dung such ground as re- 
quires it ; cover young plants, seed-beds, and also 
crops that are earthed up, to preserve them from 
frost. 

FIJVES. 

The vines that are in the vineyard, and those that 
are espstliers, require pruning thi^ 'T>opth. Cut away 
Oi l ^Tood, partof hsr Bu^nrncr's bearing wood, 

aii'i irr;^-;>: shoots of i i^t v --ar's growth. The shoots 
of i^-- -^71 aer's growth .*nW benr fruit next year; 
therefore leave a pientiuU supply of them. Next 



NOVEMBER. 



m 



Spring, every eye on these will produce a young shoot, 
€>n wiiicii grdj)es may grow. The shoots of last oi ta- 
mer's growth must be shortened to three or six joiius, 
according to their strength: shorten the weakest shoota 
most — the strongest should not have more than six 
joints left, else they will produce more young shoots 
next .spring than necessary, and not as good fruit as 
wnen shortened. In shortening the shoots, cut ahout 
half an inch distant from the eye, farther from the stem 
than the eye — the cut sloping towards the extrei/ily^ 
Branches that have no young shoots on them should be 
cut away ; and pruned so that you may have a suc- 
(Tession of young branches, as the old ones decay. 

; APPLES, PEARS, PLUMS AND CHERRIES 

Prune those trees as directed last month, if ndt- 
then done. After pruning, tie up espaliers. 

PEACHES, APRICOTS AND NECTARINES. 

Prune those trees, if not done last month, in the 
ilianner then directed. After pruning, tie up thos0 
that are espaliers. 

PLANT FRUrr TREES. 

Plant apple, pear, plum, peach, apricot, nectarine 
and other fruit trees, either standard or espalier, For 
the methods of planting and preparing the ground, see 
February. Do this work in mild weather. 

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES. 

Prune those trees as directed last month, if not 
done then. Plant young trees about six feet apart, 
Trim the stems bare about a foot high, and suffer no 
suckers to grow from the lower part of them. 

raspberries: 

Plant and prune raspberries this month, if not done, 
the last— see directions in October, 



m FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS,^ 



FIGS. 

Pull green fall fruit — tie the branches of espalie-p 
fig trees, and shelter the trees with mats or fttraw 
:^pes in severe weather. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Early this month plant and dress strawberries as 
directed last month, if neglected then — but it is rathe? 
late for planting, 

WALNUTS AND FILBERTS. 

Plant walnuts and filberts, th« former thirty to 
ferty feet apart, the latter from fifteen to twenty— 
Filberts should be trained to a stem about five feet 
high. They may be propagated by layers from treoe 
Ehat branch low on the stem. 

. MEDLARS, QUINCES AND MULBERRIES. 

Plant these trees this month — medlars and quirr» 
^ees about fifteen feet apart, mulberries about twelve 
Met apart. 

PLANTING IN GENEKiL. 
This is a favourable month for planting trees in 
general, and therefore it may be necessary to rer 
peat that young trees and shrubs should be taken 
up with their full spread of roots — the long strag- 
gling ones should be pruned off, and the holes to 
receive the plants made large enotigh to receive the 
roots without compressing them ; the holes should 
be loosened at the bottom, and the plants gently sha- 
ken whea the holes are filling with earth, that it 
may close round the small roots — tread the earth 
after the holes are filled, and before severe weather 
comes, throw some dung or litter about the stems> 
to keep frost from the roots — be careful to place 
tho plants upright, and the uppermost roots n^t^ 



NOVEMBER. 



more than t^^ree or six inches under the surface of 
the ground, Support plants that require it. 

TULIPS, HYACINTHS, &c. 

In mild, dry weather, plant tulips, hyacinths, and 
other hardy bulbous roots, in borders that are dry, 
place them about nine inches apart, and cover them 
with tan or cow dung. 

JONqUiLLES, NARCISSUSES. 

Plant jonquilles, narcissuses, &c. in mild, dry 
weather — also lilies, crown imperials, star of Beth- 
iem, hyacinths, &c. about twelve or fifteen inche* 
apart, in dry ground. 

AURICULAS. 

Those in beds and borders should be sheltered ui 
fcad weather with hoops and mats — those in pot« 
ahould be put under frames or other shelter, the 
pots plunged in dry earth ; but in mild, dry weather? 
tfiey may be exposed night and day. 

SEEDLING FLOWERS. 

Those in open ground require shelter in ba"4 
Weather, those in pots and boxes may be removed 
into warm situations, plunged in dry earth, and shel" 
4pred in bad weather. 

SNOW DROPS, H. 

Snow drops, crocusses, &c. may be planted thb 

^nonth — place the roots two or three inches deep 

in the ground, and about six inches apart, either 
in borders, patchings, or edgings. 

RANUNCULUSES. 

Plant roots of ranunculuses, anemones, &c. in lights 
8iy beds or borders, conrenient for sheltering is 



m FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS 



severe weatber—pkiu the roots about three inches- 
deep, and about eight iiichcs apart. 

FLOIVERING SHRUBS A.YD EVERGREENS. 

Prune such as have not been pruned the last 
two month, cut awaj irregular and straggling branch- 
es cluCl shoots, also suckers from the roots ; dig the 
ground between the plants, and clear away rub- 
bish. Suckers of flowering shrubs and evergreens 
may also be planted this month, as lilacs, roses, ooney- 
tuckles, laburnums, jasmines, syringas, ^c. ^c. also 
plant edgings of box and thrift where necessary, 
rrotect tender shrubs, particularly seedlings, in se- 
Tere weather, by means of hoops arches and mals 
©r boughs and litter. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Dig, trench, ridge and dung ground for Spring p]aB*r 
ting. Prepare compost for planting Spring liow- 
ers, kc, Sandy loam, light earth, and rotten dung 
must be blended together and exposed to the sua 
and air, in form of a house ridge. Where your 
ground is poor, spread manure over it to w^^sh 
in and furnish the roots of plants — Take care that 
trees lately planted which require stakes to support 
them, be well secured. Clear gravel walks of weeds 
and moss. Roll gravel and grass walks iu dry 
weather, Keep your store of fruit well secured 
(with straw) from frosts. 

G EEN'HOUSE 

Give moderate wicerings about twice a week, ad- 
mit air freely all moderate weather, and sufier no dead 
leaves to remain within the walls of your house* 



1^9 



DECEMBER. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

In mild, dry weather talie the lights your 
plants every day, and cover them at night— pick off 
the decayed leaves ; in frosty weather cover the 
frames with litter, or straw ; in wet weather tilt 
up the back of the lights to admit air ; where there 
are no frames, hoops and mats may answer instead 
of them. Examine those in the cellar and cut them 
as they flower. 

LETTUCES. 

Plants under frames, or under hoops and mats 
must be treated in the same manner as directed 
for cauliflower plants* 

CELERY. 

In fine, warm weather, when the plants are per- 
fectly dry, earth them up within tive inches of the 
top of the leaves ; in frosty weather cover the tops 
with litter, and as it is difficult to take up plants 
when the ground is hard, take some up in inild, 
dry, weather, and place them in a dry place cov- 
ering them with dry earth, sand or litter. 

ARTICHOKES. 
If artichokes were not landed up last month, it 
must be done now, as directed in November. 

ENDIVE. 

If endive w^as not laid up in ridges last month, it 
must be done now, as directed in Is^ovember. 

MUSHROOMS. 
Take care no wet gets through the covering of 
your mushroom beds — ^if any of the straw is decayed 



11@ FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



replace it ; the covering should be a foot thick, or 
more in very bad weather. 

CARDOO^rS, 

If cardoons are not earthed up within two or three 
inches of the top, it must be done now, and in fros- 
ty weather cover the tops with litter. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Make hot beds for forcing asparagus, as directed 
in January, and plant as there directed. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 
Compost prepared in October, should be placed 
under a shed to dry. 

^ VINES. 

In open weather vines may yet be pruned as di- 
rected in November, but it will be better to leave 
them till February. Lay manure about the roots to 
keep out frost; the substance washes in and nour- 
ishes the roots. 

APPLES, PEARS AND PLUMS. 

You may yet prune apple, pear, and plums trees^ 
in mild weather — See directions in October. Tie any 
espaliers that are loosened. 

PEACHES, NECTARINES AND APRICOTS. 

Those trees may yet be pruned, if not done before; 
perform the work as directed in October, and take 
mild, open weather to do it. Espaliers must be 
kept tied up so tbat the wind cannot shake them. 

GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS. 
Plant and prune those trees, if not done before, 
(see directions in October and November.) You may 
.also propagate these trees by suckers. Take mild;? 
open weather for this work^ 



DECEMBER. 



Ill 



RASPBERRIES. 

Prune and plant these shrubs in open weather, 
as directed in November and October. 

FRUIT TREES. 

You may now continue to plant fruit trees (gener- 
al) in mild weather, as directed in October and No- 
vember. Dung the ground about espalier and other 
fruit trees where the soil is poor : the dung must 
be dug in without hurting the roots of the trees. 

Protect the roots of trees lately planted, by lay- 
ing a thick coat of dung on the ground (round the 
trees) so far as the roots extend ; this will keep out 
frost. 

ammTiojsrs. 

Cover carnations layers when the weather is wet 
or frosty, with straw ; when dry and mild, give them 
Sun and air. 

AURICULAS. 

In dry, mild weather, auriculas must be exposed 
to the sun and air ; in ^wet and frosty weather, well 
sheltered with hoops and mats, frames, or other cov- 
ers, whether the r oots are in pots or open ground, 

TULIPS AjYD HYACINTHS. 

Cover these flowers with a coat of dung or tan, 

RANUNCULUSES, ANEMONES, &c. 

Treat these flowers in the manner directed for 
tulips and hyacinths. 

FLOWERS IN POTS. 

Should be plunged in borders of dry earth, if not 
<!one h ^t oionth, and sheltered in bad weather from 
wet and frost. 



532 FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 



FLO'TEUSG AXD OTHER SHRUBS. 





iiG sucil a? require the 


knifs. In luiid weatti- 


er, d 


.3: bet'veeD the TooXi 


of shrubs standing' in 




take ap -ackers risiiig 


from the roots, shorten 




ir^fr roois— Biact the 


j^:-:ckers uke up, 


pa.-! 


J_:;p -Uhea fp^r 


ex, .kc. ?n ^.'L-urih'ig, cut 






id ■ . n the other 






: :Lu:.'- :e]y planted 


r-v-. 


cheir* roots p^ore 


cce.- fi'0.;i fios', hy a 




i:^ of dang ; and tail 


weak shrubs n:iast be 


soppo: 


'^tod witii stake?. 





SEEDLIJVG FWWERS. 



Protect seedling- flowers, that arc in pots plunged 
in border.? of dry ear^h, by covering the:Ti »v -II 
Wit striTv or long litter in fi'osiy weather—also 
pro' : from frost in .like manner double rockets » 
small arbutcs, TTia^noli as, cistuces, douMe rose camp- 
io'i^, scarlet Jychuis, double vvali-tiowers, double 
stocks, double sw-et Williaras, kc, &c. 

GEXERAL kEMJ\RKS, 

In mild weather, dung and dig the ground for 
sprj':]g planling— keep fruit trees and slender shrubs 
th^t require support well tied to stakes — prepare 
ccmpost cis directed last month — clean and roll grass 
and gravel walks-— keep the frost from fruit that 
is laid up ^ and take care that the covers of your 
plauts, and iiowers are not blown av/ay. 

QREE?:-HOUSE , 

Be carefi.il to prevent the frosts getting into your 
hoa.^e, as that woald give the leaves of many plants 
a yeliow cast. That you could not recover them 
durii'^ the winter, let yoar watering too be rery 
•moderate and careful in admitting air. 



ABRIDGED DIRECTIONS 

FOR PLANTING 

TREES, SHRUBS, 



When the Trees are received, if they have been 
ant of the earth for some time, let the roots be plen- 
tifully watered or soaked in rain-water for several 
liours, and when planted a couple of shovels fall of 
well rotted stable or other manure, should be mixed 
with the earth, which is put to the roots of each Tree^ 
and if it is not convenient to plant the trees immedi- 
ately, or within several days after receiving them, the 
roots may be covered with earth in a trench dug for 
that purpose, they can then be planted at leisure with 
^fety, this method will also answer for Shrubs and 
Plants. 

Trees, shrubs and plants in general, thrive best in 
a soil of good black mould, which causes them to grow 
thifty and strong, and a situation between high and 
low ground suits them best, (excepting a few kinds.) 

The earth around each Tree, Shrub and Plant, 
should, at least twi e in the spring and summer, be care- 
fully dug up and made light, also once a year, soma 
well rotted manure dug in; It is necessary to be care- 
ful not to dig so deep as to injure or Sdisturb the rootSt 
No grass or weeds should by any means be allowed to 




114 ABRIDGED DIRECTIONS, &c. 



grow near the body of a Tree, Shrub or plant, this 
injures them very mnch, stops their growth, and they 
become stunted. 

If a tree appear bark-bound and mossy, let it be 
scraped with an Iron Instrument (which may be pur- 
chased at the store of the Editor,) well scrubbed with 
^ brash diped in strong soap-suds, let plenty of it be 
applied to the body and branches, this softens the 
bark and destroys the moss, this is of great conse- 
quence and ought to be attended to. 

The Gooseberry requires a strong moist soil, which 
ought to be kept light, and made rich with plenty >f 
old manure, no grass or weeds should be permtted to 
grow near the body of the Bush. 

Trees rnd Shrubs when transplanted, sho\ild be 
planted from one or two inches deeper than they were 
before according to their size, and the holes dug to 
plaat them in, should be sufficiently large so as not 
to cramp the roots, but to give them plenty of room. 

ORDERS for Trees, Shrubs and plants from the 
NURSERY of :^he Messrs Priaces, Flushing Long- 
Island, are left at the store of the Editor, No. 21 
Nassau-street New-York, (where Catalogues may be 
had) which will be immediately attended to, and the 
Trees, &c. put up in the most secure manner so as 
to be sent to any part of Europe or America with the 
gre xtest safety, and delivered at Crane-Whar/, New- 
York, by water, free of Freight. 




A SEED BILL, 

Calculated to crop a Garden Containing 
an Acre of Ground. 



It is impossible to adapt this Bill to every indi- 
«^id"ial, some choosing more of one thing, soriie of 
another. The design of the Bill is, to give young 
Gardeners, upon their first taking places, a general 
Qotion of the kinds and qualities with the most ap- 
proved species, where there is a variety of the clas3 
Gentlemen will likewise, by it be enabled to make 
an estimate of the expence of their seed. 



PEAS. 

2 quarts of early Charlton 

2 do Golden Hotspur 

2 do Early Frame 

t do Dwarf Prolific 

2 do do Marrowfat 

2 do Tall do 

1 do Large Blue Imp'l 

2 do Spanish Moratto 

1 do Dwf crooked Sugar 

1 do Royal Dwarf 

1 do Le adman's Dwarf 

BEANS. 

1 quart of Windsor 

1 do Long Pod 

1 do Cranberry Bush 

1 do Speckled do 

1 pint [.ima 

1 do Livar 
1 do Refugee 



oz 
do 
do 
do 



oz 
do 



oz 
do 

do 

oz 



oz 
do 
do 
do 



ONIONS. 

Strasburg 
Red Portugal 
Silver-Skined 
London Leek 

CARROT. 

Orange 
Early 1 ' vm 

TURNIP. 
Early Dutch 
Yellow 
Red Top 

Parsnip 

RADISH. 

Short Top 
Salmon 
7 > rnip 

Black Spanish 



116 



SEED BILL. 



LETTTJCE. 
I oz Cabbage 
Half do White Coss 
Half do Silesian 
Half do Tennis-bajl 
Half do Brown Dutch 



oz 
do 



Curled CRESS. 
Common do 



do Curled Parsley, 
do Plain do 



Half lb. White Mustard. 
1 oz Culed Endive 

^ CELERY. 
1 oz Solid 
Half do Red 

CUCUxMBERS. 
1 do Long Prickley 
Half do Short do 
Half do White Turkey 

MELONS. 
1 oz Cantelope 
^ do Citron 



SPINACH, 
oz Round 
do Prickly 

BEETS. 

do Red 
do Green 
do White 



CAULIFLOWER* 
Half oz Early 
Half do Late 



Half 
Half 



BROCOLL 
do White 
do Purple 

CABBAGE, 
oz Early York 
do Suo^ar-Loaf 



Half do Red Dutch 
do Drumhead 
do Green Savoj' 
do Yellow do 



2 do Scotch Kail 
1 quart Scarlet Bean's. 



GARDEN TOOLS, &c. 

Forsyth's set of tools, for pruning and cultivating 

fruit 1 riees, 
Gentlemen's sets of polished Garden Tools, 
Spades and Shovels, 
Forks, Reels, Shears, 



GARDEN TOOLS, &e, M7 



Hatchets, Hammers, 

Pincers, Turnip-Scoops, 

Patent Hoes, of all sizes, 

Rakes, from G to 14 teeth, 

D itch or Pushing Hoes, 

Frait Fongs, Prnning and Budding-Knives, 

We eding-'i rowels, Weer!iiK>; Hoes, 

W'^ed-ng-Kook??, Plan ting - Iro] - o^- Dibbles^, 

pF'ining-Saws, Pruning-Chisp ds, 

Paring-Irons, for gravel walks. 

Scythes for short grass on gravel w^alks, &c. 

Sc Jibes, for long* grass, 

Moie- Traps, Hook-Bills, 

Jocelin's Pruning Shears, &c. 

For Sale at the Store of the Publisher, No. 21 

Nassau-Street, opposite to the New Dutch Chiirch,, 
a general collection of Garden, Field and Flos^er 
Seeds, Green-House plants, Bulbous Root Glasses, 
Flower-Pots.^ Those who purchase to sell again, sup^ 
pliep on accommodating terms. 

Orders, put up with promptitude and accn- 
racy, the articles, if required, car3fvilly packed for 
sending abroad, and ail warranted of the first quality. 



Seedsman &^ Florist 



HAS ALWAYS ON HAND A GENERAL ASSORTMENT OF 

Garden, Grass and Flower Seeds, 

AMERICAN AND ENGLISH GROWTH, 

SUCH AS 

Red^ White Yellow Clover^ Lucerne. 
Saintfoin^ Burnet^ Red Top ^ Orchard 
Grass, 3IANGEL WURZEL, ^c. ' * 

Gentlemen can be supplied with native AmericanS^ 
Seeds, fresh gathered, with their generic speci - 
fic names attached to them. 

Catalogues can be had at the Store grati-^. 



